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How to install a Forge WGA
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Posted by sam96CS [Email] (#852) [Profile/Gallery] (more from sam96CS) on Fri, 15 May 2009 16:48:49 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Do you mean the wastegate actuator?, Gary L., Fri, 15 May 2009 14:21:07
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Okay, here's my write-up. I'm not a SAAB mechanic, and I don't know a tenth as much as some others who post here frequently. So you might want to wait long enough for others to see this write-up and post their corrections and comments. Sorry it is long. I'll keep an eye on this thread and will answer questions. Read this all the way through before you begin. Hope this helps! Sam

Forge Wastegate Actuator (WGA) installation procedure:

Part: Forge model FMAC9000 wastegate actuator for T25 turbo on a '96 Saab 9000CS

Tools and supplies:
standard screwdriver with approx. 8" long blade
10 mm open end wrench - must be very short with a big offset like a bicycle wrench.
11 mm open end wrench
Needle nose pliers
work light
drill and 5/16" bit for drilling metal
block of wood
measuring tape

Note: the work is performed lying under the car. I used Rhino Ramps to elevate the front end about 6-1/2", and had enough room to work. Follow the usual safety procedures for jacking a car or elevating it on ramps.

Cautions:
Engine must be completely cold.
Wear eye protection or at least eyeglasses.

Procedure:
0. Make mental notes about how the old actuator is connected. It consists of a can at one end and a rod that is attached to the wastegate lever at the other end. A hose is attached to the can. The can is attached to a bracket with two 10 mm nuts. The rod attachment at the wastegate could be by c-clip or cotter pin or some other means. This write-up assumes it is by c-clip.
1. Remove and save the two 10mm nuts from the new actuator. The Forge actuator is an exact fit for the T25 turbo's old actuator bracket, so there's no need to use the Forge bracket. If your old bracket is in good condition then you can add the Forge bracket to your collection of misc. SAAB stuff.
2. Disconnect the hose from old actuator. Pliers are handy for loosening the clamp. Squeeze together the little hose clamp tabs with the pliers to expand the clamp while pulling off the hose.
3. If the old actuator was never tampered with, then there may still be a little metal disk dangling from the wastegate lever that is stamped "SAAB" on one side and "4" on the opposite side. Pop it off with the screwdriver and discard. Remove the c-clip that prevents the actuator rod from slipping off of the wastegate lever. The c-clip will slide off with some persuasion with a screwdriver. There's very little room to work. Slip the wastegate actuator rod off of the wastegate lever. Save the c-clip if you think you can re-fit it, otherwise add it to your collection of misc. SAAB stuff. Alternatives to re-using the c-clip are mentioned at step 11.
4. Remove the two 10mm nuts that secure the old actuator "can" and slide the old actuator out of the bracket. The bottom nut is easier to reach than the top one. The top nut is the reason why the 10mm wrench must be very short and have a big offset.
5. Compare the diameters of the holes at the end of the old and new actuator rods. If the Forge hole is smaller than the hole in the old SAAB rod, then it may be impossible to slip the wastegate lever through it. I had to drill mine out with a 5/16" bit. Best way to do this is to put a block of scrap wood behind the rod so that you drill through the rod and into the wood. Be patient and let the drill bit do the work. The bit may "grab" the rod, so don't let it surprise you. The end of the rod will be hot to the touch for a minute or two after drilling through it. Also beware that the metal shavings are sharp and can become nasty little splinters if not handled carefully.
6. On the old actuator, measure the distance from the actuator face to the center of the hole at the end of the rod (exactly 5" in my case). Adjust the length of the rod on the new actuator (the end of the rod screws in and out if the 11 mm lock nut is loose) accordingly. Leave the rod's lock nut loose for now because minor adjustment will be needed to turn the hole perpendicular to the wastegate lever.
7. Slide the new actuator through the bracket with the hose pipe facing down.
8. Install the two new 10 mm nuts that came with the Forge actuator. Install the bottom nut first. The top nut is hard to reach. The shorter the wrench and the bigger the offset the better. Nuts should be snug; there's no torque spec I'm aware of, and no space for using a torque wrench.
9. Rotate the wastegate lever as far as it will go counterclockwise (closed wastegate position). Rotate the end of the actuator rod so that the hole is perpendicular to the wastegate lever. Apparently when the wastegate is closed it is supposed to be closed FIRMLY, and you'll find that the hole won't quite reach the wastegate lever. Pull the actuator rod firmly and slip the hole in the rod over the wastegate lever. You have to pull hard enough to overpower the WGA's spring.
9. Use the 11 mm wrench to snug the lock nut GENTLY on the actuator rod. Finger pressure is enough. If you're concerned about stressing the diaphragm, then hold the rod with a pair of pliers or vice grips as you turn the lock nut.
10. Re-attach the hose.
11. Re-attaching the c-clip is more trouble than it's worth. If there's a hole in the wastegate lever, then use a small cotter pin if you have one on hand. If you had a tamper indicator as mentioned at step 3, then you definitely have a hole in the wastegate lever. I didn't have a cotter pin, so I used a small finishing nail which I pushed through and then bent with the screwdriver to prevent from falling out. If one day I have no boost I'll know it's probably time to replace the nail. A pushnut will probably also work or a small cotter pin. If you drive where the roads are salted and intend to keep the car a long time, then use a fastener that resists rust.
12. Go for a test drive. If your car has no issues other than the old defective WGA, then you should not experience fuel cutoff ("bucking") regardless of load and throttle position. The Forge WGA has a stronger spring than the old SAAB WGA. It will produce a little more base boost than the old SAAB WGA did when it was working properly.
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