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, Fri, 9 Oct 2009 06:48:52
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OK, so that makes sense-TCS light is on because ANTILOCK light is on.
alright, so the two systems talk to each other, so to speak. At least it it is not in LHM.
I don't see BRAKE FLUID light coming on. The other two lights are on when key is turned on, then when cranking engine the ANTILOCK light goes out, but TCS light stays on, then once engine starts the ANTILOCK light returns. They both stay lit until key is turned "off".
OK, so thanks for clarifying the 'pedal jab' test, I thought I had two bad accumulators, because the pump starts after 4-6 jabs, but Ari you're saying that I should be looking for the BRAKE FLUID light in order to determine if accumulator is bad? (Not simply number of jabs to start pump) OK, good- I will check again, but I don't believe I will get the fluid level light. I was mainly concerned about burning up another ABS pump motor!
I checked resistance on the two front sensors at the connectors under 'aquarium' cover, both check out OK-around 1100 ohms. I guess I should check the rear ones as well to see if one might be bad. Connectors are underneath rear seats some have said, is there a ABS computer terminal that is easier to access for the sensor test?
Just a silly observation, but seems like these cars' electric motors all die after 10-15 years of use. Pump motors, fan motors, etc. Seems to me like probably the brushes get worn? I wish I could replace brushes on these motors like I can on the alternator!
Weston
posted by 24.164.169...
, Fri, 9 Oct 2009 06:48:52
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