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Re: stuck brake caliper.. Posted by Gene N [Email] (#1094) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Gene N) on Thu, 15 Oct 2009 04:59:06 In Reply to: stuck brake caliper.., keith85spg, Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:44:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Replacing the caliper is relatively painless, if you have a pressure bleeder. Loosen, but don't remove the brake line to the caliper. Use a flare wrench if at all possible. If it gives you any trouble, stop and spray some penetrating oil (PB-Blaster, Kroil, etc.) on the fitting. You don't want to snap it off or round off the hex flats. Remove the anti-rattle spring on the side. Pull the two plastic plugs off that you have discovered and remove the guide pins. Usually the pins are 7mm Allen heads, but I have run into a few Torx T-45 pins.
Pull the caliper out. If there is a lip on the rotor, you will have to push the pads in a little to clear the lip. Since you are not replacing the pads, just the caliper, pull the inner pad out of piston. The outer pad just floats. At this point you will realize why you didn't take off the brake line first. There is no swivel on the line, so turn the whole caliper counter clockwise to remove the caliper from the line. When you are putting new caliper on, start the brake line fitting into the hole, then rotate the caliper until the fitting is home. Replace the pads and use high temperature grease on the back of the pads and on the ears that fit into caliper carrier. Fit the caliper pins; they should be already greased. (If you were just changing pads, you would re-grease the pins.) Tighten the brake line fitting after the caliper is mounted. Don't forget the anti-rattle spring. Bleed the brakes, and you are done.
If you were replacing the pads and not the caliper, you would not remove the brake line (obviously), and you would push the piston back with a C-clamp. If you replace the rear brakes you can't use a C-clamp. Do a search for the procedure.
posted by 132.228.195...
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