1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
On the AIC - just liberally spray your clean/lube into the AIC body - I used carb cleaner, some people recommend WD-40 . I did it a couple times - jiggle it around so the stuff gets distributed, and let it dry. I didn't fool with it too much - I might have moved the little butterfly thing you might see. YMMV - there are several different models, yours is probably one of the bigger ones since it isn't on the bottom of the intake manifold.
There are Ohm spec for the resistance on the pins of the AIC if you want them, let me know if you have a LH 2.2, 2.4 or 2.4.2 system. But elec failure of this part is very rare.
On the AMM - do NOT spray anything in there. You can test it on the car.
1) visual inspection, make sure it isn't damaged. The screens should be intact, and when you look down the barrel you should see a thin wire.
If it is broken, you need a new AMM. The wire is very thin - look carefully.
You can test it on the car.
2) Quick test. Disconnect hose from *air filter side* of AMM only so you see in it while the engine is running. Warm up engine and then increase RPM to 2500 or better for a short while, shut it down - after about 5 sec the wire should glow for about a second. If so, it's prob good. You can be a little more technical - same test with a digital (NOT analog) meter across terminals 1(-) and 4(+) you should get about 4V when wire glows. The AMM isn't something you can fix. Oh, and different AMMs are not interchangable.
Vac hoses - just get a big length of the sizes you need and change them one at a time. That's the easiest way to avoid hunting down a diagram.
BUT, before you do this, check all your connectors and grommet type components, you may need some of those too. In particular, the type of grommet similar to the one on the valve cover can be badly damaged but look good externally.
Best wishes, Buck
posted by 24.14.109...
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