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Thanks for the info, BobS. This evening I did a little more investigating/troubleshooting. I found the anti frost switch and manage to disconnect the leads to it--that is ALL I did. I found the screw but left it alone. I cleaned the leads a bit and applied dielectric grease to the wires from the car and reassembled. I check the AC relay and took it apart and I found that the relay was black, or burned in the corner of the relay where the leads make connections. I cleaned it with some electric cleaner spray and reassembled. I had the exact same relay in my parts bucket and upon disassembling found that it was much cleaner or newer looking at least on the inside (the functioning part) so I reassembled it and installed it. I applied dielectric grease there too. I fired her up and checked all A/C connections with a black light and found no evidence of dye (no green fluorescence) at any connection including the x-pan valve where I had replaced both inner and outer o-rings (they were torched and had dye everywhere which is what got me into this adventure). The air temp out of the center vent read ~50F so I took her for spin where the temp in the center vent dropped to ~42F after some driving in about 108F outside temp. The temp did not fluctuate much if at all and was comfortable at the usual setting of 74F. What's more I could now hear the compressor engage and feel when it disengaged. I think the relay was bad afterall! I pulled into the garage with the AC cycled off, lifted the hood and witnessed it engage again as it idled. The low side hose was cold with condensation on it and the sight glass remained clear. I think it is fixed! I appreciate your insight into the leading indicators of a bad anti frost switch and will have to remember this post. Now I need to order a new relay and so far I haven't been able to find the one with the same p/n's on it. Thanks again.
thank
posted by 72.201.169...
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