1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
It's not the throttle body, sorry. that only impacts running after it fires.
most likely is the CPS. sometimes the fuel pump.
get some brake cleaner and pull one of the vacuum lines off the intake plenum and using the plastic applicator in that open port, spray to a count of TEN. replace the line. crank. either it will not change what you have experienced, or it will sound like it is going to start and then die. If it does the former it's about a 95% that it's the CPS, if the latter it's the fuel pump.
the CPS for the 1991, 1992, and 1993 is the same. but guess what? the CPS on the 2.1 NA is too.... just the harness side connector is different, so find a used one and splice in the connector. And if you want to go new... you can purchase the guts of the sensor from eEuroparts for the 900 2.1 NA and put that in instead.
I have the DI/APC book on the tests, it pretty cool. I may scan it and put on my site. Everything you wanted to know about checking to see if the CPS works without removing it. You will need a VOM, and a socket to turn the engine, you can get to that by pulling the rubber oblong access over off, it is a bit of a pain to put back in but can be done.
If you change it out, the most difficult parts are, 1) getting the crank pulley bolt out (and then getting it back later with sufficient torque), getting the harness connector past the alternator (L hex wrench to remove the alternator bolt just above the fender opening until it is not threaded, and loosen the pivot bolt, then a lever to swing it back to allow clearance to put the connector between it and the block) and that stupid clip that holds both the CPS cable and the oil sensor cable...
Oh it is mandatory to have the locking bar for the belt tensioner too. While you are this far, consider the belt condition (remember that the 19MM is a left hand thread, this is the one you lean on with a 2 foot breaker bar from next to the AC hoses above to compress the piston and fit the locking bar), AND consider the condition of both of the pulleys too.
Other items, if you have an oil leak behind the front main seal (the burnt orange one behind the pulley consider replacing it, about $8 from eEuroparts) the Front side of the inner wheel well needs to be removed so you get to see the connections at the bottom of the washer reservoir) and check the condition of the engine mount there too.
if you have more specific questions send me an email
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