1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Ok, so.
Just on quick thing before doing the below. when you start the car, do you push on the gas pedal? If not... push it to half way down before you crank. when you do this does the pedal feel like it is fighting back, i.e. you need to push much much harder than before? If so the car is in LHM mode and the throttle body or the pressure switch may be having an issue. if the pedal moves with light pressure as before.... start down.
If you have a timing light with the inductive collar you can put that around the wire bundle that is on the side of the battery box, it is the upper one there and has blue, orange, green and the last one may be grey, I forget, these are the same four colors that you can see in the connection going to the DI. crank and the light will flash if that circuit (which includes the CPS) is good. If that passes, then do the brake cleaner in the intake plenum as suggested earlier, if it sounds like wants to start and run then your DI is most likely working enough to fire the plugs. Also, if you do that and then shut the key off... you will see the rapid fire burn off via that timing light, all very cool.
No tach response <-- unfortunately this is not always a valid indicator.
I pulled the DI cassette off and installed grounded plugs into it. There was no spark when cranking. <--- consider doing the test with brake cleaner as above.
The tank has gas - take the floor above the spare tire and pump off, two T-20 screws on the rear seat side of the hinge in that floor and pull the floor out, pull the over off the pump and put your finger on the large plastic cover and have a helper turn the key and crank, you should feel the pump running for just an instant.
If the pump does not seem like it is running, and the brake cleaner test does NOT seem like it wants to fire, and you already test CPS and it is doing it's job....
ONLY on the automatic, there is an ETS electronics box under the drivers seat, AND an ASR box on top of it. After doing it several times, the easiest way to get to those boxes for me, was to take move the seat all the way forward, remove the two torx bolts at the rear of the seat, move the seat all the way to the rear, and remove the two bolts at the front. you can rock the seat towards the front and reach under and disconnect the two power cables and lift the seat to the right or rear. what you want to do then is to disconnect the connector to the top box, the ASR box, it's the smaller one. with power OFF of course. after it has been disconnected, see if the car will start, you can leave the seat where you stashed it, and the connector to the ASR will not be connected. you may get an error indicator on the dash. If it starts and runs...then that ASR Box has failed. I just had this happen. let me know if you get to this point.
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