1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Dan Y,
Yes, very little advance at low rpm.
Try this test:
Ignition OFF.
Pull the fuel pump fuse, (#22?).
Remove the ignition cassette.
Remove the valve cover.
Remove spark plug #1, (closest to the tensioner belt).
Put a 1/2" 27mm socket on a 1/2" ratchet on the crank pulley bolt.
Insert a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole.
Pull the ratchet clockwise, (righty righty) until the screwdriver is at it's maximum height.
Repeat this max height process until the cam marks come into view, (TDC #1).
Check the hash marks on the cam gear faces are 90 degrees perpendicular to the cylinder head surface, then verify the marks behind the cam gear are in the "v" cuts of the head castings. This will ensure the cam gear has not slipped or is out of position on the cam itself.
Pull the ratchet another 720 degrees (2 complete turns) to recheck.
As #1 piston reaches max height, the crankshaft pulley mark should be at TDC and the cam markings should be in the "v" head castings.
If not, remove the 13mm chain tensioner bolt, spring, and plastic piece, then remove the 27mm tensioner.
Hold the back of the exhaust cam from moving with a wrench while you remove the 14mm cam bolt.
Tap the gear off the exhaust cam, but use a plastic bread bag tie to keep it on the chain.
Turn the wrench on the back of the exhaust cam until the cam mark aligns with casting "v".
While pulling UP on the chain, align the cam gear with the shaft.
Keep pulling the chain and detach the plastic tie.
Reposition the gear in the chain until it fits on the properly positioned camshaft.
The exhaust will stay in place but the intake cam will spring towards the exhaust cam, don't worry.
Reposition the intake cam using the "v" casting marks and have a helper hold it in place.
Starting with the hash mark on the exhaust cam gear, count seven and one half links back to the hash mark on the intake cam gear. That is the correct chain spacing between the gears.
Collapse the tensioner extension and refit the body of it into the cylinder head.
Refit the plastic insert, spring, and 13mm bolt.
Ratchet the crank ANOTHER 2 full turns and recheck the cam markings at TDC #1.
If they are incorrect, blame your helper, then repeat the process. Because you kept tension on the exhaust side of the chain, you will likely only have to reset the intake cam.
Job WELL DONE!
Happy SAABing
posted by 108.25.32...
, Wed, 3 Aug 2011 20:39:44
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
