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Maybe driver's latch works? Or actuator?
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Fri, 27 Jan 2012 08:11:42 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Central locking, splice1, Fri, 27 Jan 2012 07:24:15
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Splice:

The key in driver's door unlocks that door via a linking arm to the latch works, and also sends an electrical signal that should reach not only the driver's door electric actuator but also the actuators on the other three doors. So driver's door is getting manually cycled but others are working with signal from door lock controller, as they are with the rocker switch in between the seats.

So it sounds as if the driver door lock actuator isn't doing its job. The actuators seem to be generally trouble free, and your driver door one could be trying to do its job but meeting too much resistance to push and pull the latchworks.

How does the driver door lock button action feel? If it's stiff it would point to the above. Even if it moves easy enough the latchworks could still be okay.

Getting into the door isn't super easy. And even with panel off you still need to do more to get the latchworks out, if they have to come out. It's hard to lube while still in door, it's so hidden.

But with the panel off you CAN see if the actuator is working; it might be unplugged or its linkage might be disconnected, say. You could also disconnect the linkage and try it to see if the push-pull action takes place with no load on it, and try pushing the linkage yourself by hand to see if it is stiff.

Besides the two long torx screws under the plastic covers at ends of the cubby, and two inside the plugs in the inner door handle, there's one holding the sheet metal clip that the courtesy light screw goes into - - take T10 torx out and tip rear of courtesy light out and pull its front end out from behind panel, unplug and set aside, then look at the little metal clip the T10 screw went into and you'll see up inside things the screw I'm talking about.

Also, pull straight out on the tongue-shaped toggle that chooses which side mirror you want to adjust, and it comes off revealing a skinny peg and a black foam rubber surround just inside. Use a small screwdriver to pry that rubber back and pry on the clip inside, and the plastic panel and mirror control switch tips out, rear first I think, and can be unplugged. That reveals yet another torx screw. I think the plastic surround then will come out, with clever twisting around door latch release.

Then pop the door panel out at bottom prying with a thin bar, I think there is one, maybe two, plastic poppet fittings. THEN, with window glass run all the way down, whack up HARD from bottom of the panel and its top edge, which is spring clipped to the sheet metal of the door inside, will pop up.

Raise it high enough to get over the door lock button, then there'll be maybe just electric connectors to remove to get it off.

Cut thru urethane rubber goo holding plastic inner panel onto door metal with a single edge razor if you need to get that plastic back out of the way.

posted by 71.173.74...

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