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Re: Trans oil and filter change Posted by sam96CS [Email] (#852) [Profile/Gallery] (more from sam96CS) on Tue, 16 Jun 2015 07:37:46 In Reply to: Re: Trans oil and filter change, Lester, Tue, 16 Jun 2015 07:16:39 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
My procedures are really long and detailed. Despite the length this is an easy DIY job. If you decide to do a triple change then you don't need to change the filter all 3 times.
Tools and supplies:
1. 10 mm socket and wrench (don't need extensions)
2. 8 mm allen wrench
3. Drain pan and rags, including a lint free microfiber rag.
4. Trouble light
5. 4.5 Quarts Mobil 1 synthetic ATF per change (Just about EXACTLY 4.5 quarts by this method. 4.4 Quarts is probably the exact quantity, as 4.5 puts it about 1/16" above the full hot index mark.
Safety:
Do this with a cool engine and transmission, else you'll be burned by the nearby catalytic converter or the transmission oil or the transmission filter cover.
Torque specs:
None for drain plug (just make it very snug; it will drip if merely snug)
6 ft lbs (72 inch pounds) for the filter cover bolts
Procedure:
1. Drive car onto wood boards, 2 on front left side, thick enough to allow your body to squeeze under the front of the car. Block the rear wheels and set the hand brake.
2. Remove the transmission dipstick so air can easily displace fluid as it drains.
3. Wipe the area around the drain plug clean if it is dirty. Put drain pan under plug and remove plug with 8 mm allen wrench. Once loose the plug turns very easily. It has about 1/2" of threads. Wipe the plug clean with a lint-free cloth, and don't lose the shiny metal plug washer.
4. Give the old fluid plenty of time to drain out.
5. Remove the three 10 mm bolts that secure the transmission filter cover. The bolts turn easily after breaking loose. The threads are about an inch long, and the bolts have metal washers. Wipe the bolts clean.
6. The filter cover will stay on until you pull it off with your fingers, and then more fluid will drip out. Inside the filter cover is a small rectangular magnet. The magnet is loose and can be removed from the cover for cleaning. Inspect it carefully. There should be no metal flakes, and the crud on it should be slimy, not gritty. It should not have a metallic sheen. The filter cover and magnet should be cleaned thoroughly and wiped with a lint free cloth. If you're replacing the filter (recommended every change by Ari), then it pulls out with fingers or pliers (there's a tang for gripping the filter). Still more fluid will come out when you remove the filter. The filter is cylindrical, open at the top end and has little feet (tangs) at the bottom. There's a rubber gasket around the base of the filter, just above the feet. The replacement filter kit comes with the filter gasket and with a replacement 0-ring for the filter cover. It also includes a metal washer (purpose unknown) and another gasket that might be a spare gasket for the base of the filter. Insert the new filter with the open end up. When it stops, give it a little push, and it will snap into place (travels another 1/8" or so). Replace the o-ring on the filter cover. Install the filter cover and torque the bolts to 72 inch pounds.
7. Install the drain plug very snugly.
8. Measure how much fluid drained out. Add the same amount of fresh fluid through the dip stick hole, pouring slowly because the hole narrows near the body of the transmission. Another method is to put in 4 quarts, start the engine in park, then continue adding until it reaches the minimum mark on the cold side of the dipstick.
9. Drive about 20 miles and check the fluid level (see step 10). Drain the excess or top off as needed. The difference between the minimum and maximum index marks is about 1 pint.
10. HOW TO CHECK: Warm the transmission up by driving about 20 miles. Park the car on a level surface. Put the gear selector in park with the motor running. Slowly move the gear selector to 1. Now, move the gear selector forward, stopping for a moment in each gear, until you are back in park. I usually then also move from park to reverse, and then back to park. Next, pop the hood, jump out of the car (engine still running in park), run to the front and pull out the dip stick. Wipe it clean. Insert GENTLY (beware the lip about 5" inside the dip stick tube) and pull again. Check it on the 80 degree C side; that is the level. The distance between the index marks is about 1 pint.
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