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Re: Two stroke trouble....
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Posted by EWDURBIN (more from EWDURBIN) on Wed, 2 Jun 2004 12:34:56 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Two stroke trouble...., Cory, Mon, 31 May 2004 10:12:57
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Timing is simple for the two strokes!
First buy a stroboscope, probably about thirty dollars. They differ, but for the most part they will be self-explanatory.

Determining TDC:
The first step is to find TDC or top dead center for your engine. On the 3 cylinder vehicles, top dead center is the point at which the second cylinder (middle) is at the top of its stroke. To find TDC pull out the plugs and grab a screwdriver, flat head is best. If you’re worried about scratching put some electrical tape over the head. Drop the screwdriver into the cylinder and rest it on the top of the piston. SLOWLY turn the engine using the fan. Watch the screw driver begin to rise and fall, when you get a good idea for its motion turn it to where the screw driver is beginning to rise. Even MORE SLOWLY turn the engine to the point where the screwdriver rises to about the farthest it goes. Now rock it back and forth watching the screwdriver very closely to find exactly TDC, when satisfied pulls out the screwdriver and leaves the engine at TDC. Now look at the front of the engine, at the bottom you'll find a large pulley that drives the fan and alternator. On block near the pulley you should find three white lines. The center line is TDC, and the others are 5 degrees advanced or retarded. There should also be a white line on the pulley; this line should be lined up exactly with the middle line. If it is not, you may have more problems than just timing, but even if it isn't you can still just paint another one on so that it lines up with the line on the block. Now you can begin to check/adjust your timing.

Checking and Adjusting Timing:
Hook up your stroboscope. The new ones normally have a positive clip (red), negative clip (black), and a device that goes around the spark plug wire to pick up the pulses. For these cars the pulse detector should be hooked up to the middle cylinders wire. The positive to the battery terminal, and the negative to a suitable ground... the battery terminal many not be the best idea. Once everything is hooked up, make sure the wires and light gun are clear of moving parts and start the car. Now go to your gun, point it toward all the lines on the pulley and pull the trigger. You should get a strobe effect on the pulley, which will make the white line mentioned earlier seem to stand still. Look closely. If the line is lined up with the center line on the block at idle, you're timing is perfect. If it is not... we'll move on to adjusting it. For this step I recommend rolling the belt off of the fan and alternator... unless your fingers aren't that precious. Just for fun, with the car off of course, grab the distributor and see if it is loose, if it is... you've found your problem. If the car runs, I doubt this. Assuming points, wires, plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and coil are all in good condition we will precede. At the base of the distributor housing there should be a flat head screw. Loosening this screw will allow the distributor to be rotated. Find this screw, but leave it in for now. Grab a helper to hold the light gun, start the car, and make your way around toward the distributor and loosen the screw. Have your helper pull the trigger on the gun and point it toward the pulley. Now you can rotate the distributor. Make a few small movements to familiarize yourself with the way it goes. Basically turning the distributor either direction will affect the timing in some manner. The different methods for timing these vehicles is debated… I’ll share what I know.

These distributors are normally fitted with a vacuum advance mechanism. The idea is that at idle the car can run at TDC, and as you accelerate, vacuum created by the carburetors is transferred to a diaphragm that pulls the points plate to advance the timing. If your vacuum advance is operational and you want to use it, a tube must be connected from the carburetors (near the gas line) to the vacuum advance. The engine should be timed to top dead center while it idles by turning the distributor. Once you have it timed, tighten the screw locking the distributor, now while pointing the stroboscope at the pulley, have someone rev the engine to about three thousand RPMs. If your vacuum advance is working, this should advance the timing about five degrees (I think this is the correct amount).

On the other hand, some people believe that distributors should be locked out completely (no advance). In this case, an advance of 5-10 degrees is necessary. In discussions with some people I’ve heard of some people going as far out as I believe 23 degrees, this is dangerous and bad for the engine, so stick with about 5-10 degrees if you have a locked out distributor.

My car (1967 Model 96 3 cylinder) runs great with a locked out distributor timed approximately 7 degrees advance. I suggest talking to as many people as you can about these figures because just about anyone knows more about these cars than me. Learn the advantages and disadvantages of each individual configuration and timing, and then make the decision that best suits you. PLEASE CORRECT ANYTHING INCORRECT ABOUT THESE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!


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