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Yup, big honkin' flames shooting out of the carb is a symptom of one of two things:
1) Sauron, the Dark Lord, his physical form destroyed in the War of the Ring, has taken up residence in the float bowl and is sending out his fell thoughts via your carburetor.
2) Your ignition timing is kacked up -- the spark is firing so early or so late that the explosion is going back up the intake tract instead of pushing down on the pistons.
Personally, I'm betting on #2.
As Kskid said, it's not difficult to miss by a tooth or so when you put the distro back in. But actually, you can stick the distributor in any old way you want, AS LONG as there's enough physical clearance for all the parts AND as long as you correctly set the ignition timing for the new position. (Actually, when I put on the MSS manifold kit, I had to re-index the distributor so the vacuum chamber would clear the bottom of the air cleaner.)
So even though you no doubt hooked up the timing light and set timing correctly when you first reinstalled the distributor, I would suggest doing it again, just to make sure. (Remember the stupid thing I did: I set the timing correctly, but then forgot to tighten down the clamp bolt, so that as the engine ran it pulled the timing farther and farther off until WHOOSH!)
If you can't even get it to run well enough to use a timing light without getting the hair singed off your forehead, try static-timing it first: (1) With ignition off, turn engine to firing position on cylinder #1 (intake valve having just closed, timing mark lined up with correct scale position); (2) make sure rotor is pointing to #1; (3) hook up a test light to the points and turn the distributor until they JUST open.
This should get you close enough that the engine should at least run kinda-sorta. Then hook up the timing light and set it correctly. Incidentally, the advice I got from MSS was to ignore slow-speed timing, and instead set it so the timing TOPS OUT at 35 or 36 degrees when the engine is revved up to 4000 rpm or so. The only easy way to do this is with one of those trick timing lights with an advance dial: set the dial to 35-36, shoot the gun down at the timing marks, then just blip the engine up briefly (don't hold it roaring away under no load) and you'll see the timing mark move up the scale under control of the mechanical advance. You want to set it so it blips up to the 0 mark but no farther. The advantage of this method is that it gives you the correct advance setting where it counts the most, and it should still be close enough at low RPMs unless your distributor is really screwy!
Good luck, and watch those eyebrows!
posted by 68.13.13...
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