1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Synthetic will not change engine noise to any degree. Make shure motor mounts nuts are tight and the rubber is supple , not hard like a rock ( 35 years old?) Also make shure exhaust is not leaking , nor hitting, Third add some sound padding to the area just above the motor (glue) also adjust the valves. If you want to quiet the motor with oil viscosity a step-up may slightly help 15/40 or 20/50 now in the summer. Also add under pads below the carpet and under the pedal plates near firewall area. The area inside the valence/rear seat arm rest "door card, gets noisey as rust always makes holes in the verticle edge of the rear fender. Foam padding in here helps. Tyre type and construction can also make extra noise in the car, can you borrow a set to try. There originally was a foam peice inside the A pillar under the front fender that kept noise from the front wheel house tunneling up the a pillars, but this also trapped water and this causes the rust hole seen on most older 96's. But with front fender removed, you can add a rubber strip to the outer edge against the fender, to seal out the wheel cavity air and tire noise, from the area just near the door hinges, also add deadening then on the rear wall of the chassis outrigger, that wheel cavity on the back side in the area where the door hinges are. Lastly in 35 years as a tech I have never heard of syn trans oil when changed back to conv trans oil eating the fluid. Conversly Saab say's and pay's big monety to inform tech's of just the opposite. Going to syn trans oil, 5 qauarts are used, drain, add 1 quart, run tans 2-5 minutes on rack and , Drain" flush oil (syn) then fill 1 quart , run 2-5 miinutes, drain ( new 9.00 syn oil ) then finally refill to full with 3 quarts syn oil. Don..
posted by 152.163.10...
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