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"I have a '72 96 V4 and my oil pressure gauge is reading in the 40's as an average. It approaches 50 when I hit the throttle. Is that where it should be on the V4? I am pulling the engine next week to install a new clutch and am also wondering (since I have never done this before) if I should rebuild or install a new oil pump. Is that a job that I can do without tearing into the engine? Is it "right there" once the engine is pulled? Or do I have to take more things apart to access it? Thanks!"
A fair rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10PSI/1000RPM. Wide variation from this approximation is tolerable, it is only a general idea. Oil pressure will generally top out at around 50-60PSI depending on the relief valve setting which governs maximum pressure. Pressure will be higher on cold startup at idle than at warm idle, because the oil is thicker when cold. On many vehicles, depending on design and accuracy of the oil gauge, pressure will appear very low at warm idle, but if it rises promptly with engine speed, this is not a concern, because bearings are only lightly loaded at idle and little oil flow is needed to protect them. Your readings sound fine, I assume you have an aftermarket gauge?--V4s that I am familiar with only have a light, which is controlled by a switch that only turns the light on when pressure drops below its cutpoint somewhere around 5-10PSI typically.
Access to the oil pump is simple after removing the oil pan. Oil pumps seldom fail except from ingestion of foreign matter that shouldn't be there anyway and is probably cause for a complete rebuild. Based on your information I would leave well enough alone.
While the engine is out, you may want to consider a complete reseal, this means oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, valve adjustment (but that's best done hot ie in the car), timing cover seal, timing cover gasket if any leakage indicated, and rear crankshaft seal.
posted by 208.53.8...
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