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, Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:01:18
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I would pressure check that block carefully for any cracks. A dye penetrant test might be worth it, too. A flourescent dye will stay in any cracks and is visible under a black light. It's possible that sometime in the last 6 years it got cold enough in the garage to freeze the block. I'd also pressure test the head for leaks, particularly around the valve seats. It doesn't sound like a blown head gasket, but it might be if the head is warped. Did you ever overheat the engine? because the hoses are both at the top, draining coolant from the radiator only drains the rest of the system down to the level of the hoses, thus the small quantity; there is quite a bit of coolant left in the engine.
This reminds me of a guy who brought a boat into the shop where I worked. He had done a valve job and never retorqued the head. He blew the head gasket 20 miles at sea and, not having a fresh-water heat exchanger, pumped sea water into the cooling system for 20 miles. Through the blown head gasket it got into the sump. After replacing the head gasket and trying to start it, he brought it to us because we worked on foreign cars. When we drained the sump we got about 2 gallons of saltwater before the oil came out. He had left the sea water in there while replacing the head gasket and the rings had rusted up and there was no compression. That was the reason he couldn't start it. The engine was a Volvo-Penta version of the inline-6 in the 164, but you couldn't just go to your local Volvo car dealer for parts. It had an interesting triple carb set-up on it.
posted by 207.225.8...
, Mon, 21 Jan 2002 06:57:43
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