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With the caveat that you just plain CAN NOT get full braking power for the first bunch of stops - the new pads will simply conform to the rotor after a bit and everything is fine. "Turning" the rotors will remove thousands of miles of life from them for the small benefit of shortened break-in time. EBC pads come with a thin abrasive layer to speed break-in.
That said, if they are too thin or they are warped, that's different.
You need data - original thickness and minimum thickness. Subtract the current thickness from the original thickness to get one "pad life" worth of rotor wear. Subtract that from the current thickness to estimate "end of pad life" thickness. Per "Centric" as seen on Rock Auto's site, original thickness is 30 mm, minimum is 27. IF yours are in fact 30, that's like brand new!
My experience with "fixing" warped rotors isn't particularly good. In one case, back in the days of the 99, the mounting flange on the hub was somehow causing the problem. That car went through a couple of warranty rotor sets, without improvement. Must have been a common problem, b/c Saab invented a tool that held a piece of abrasive cloth and fit into the caliper like a brake pad. That worked. In another case, a casting flaw caused the rotor to expand unevenly as it got hot. Very frustrating. Measure the rotor cold and it was well within tolerance. Take the car around the block and it was fine. Stop from highway speed and it would shake your fillings.
As for cost, the Centric rotors from the above site range from around $50 each for plain ones to $100 each for slotted and drilled versions. Not what I would call expensive.
posted by 98.28.19...
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