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It Depends
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Posted by Drew in Houston [Email] (more from Drew in Houston) on Sat, 22 May 2004 15:28:17 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Help! about wiring!, Seung Min Yu (Mel), Thu, 20 May 2004 03:37:12
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Mel,

I'm not positive about the speakers in your car and their impedence ratings, but assuming they're 4 ohm-rated speakers like in most cars:

If you put the two left and two right speakers in parallel with one another you'd be creating a 2 ohm load for both the right and left channels of the head unit amp. Probably the integrated amps in the head unit aren't rated for a 2 ohm load and might run hot or blow-up because you'll be passing double the current compared to a single speaker's 4 ohm load--the sound would probably sound sloppy too because the amps, if they could handle the loading, would be more likely to clip badly (a zero ohm load, or zero resistance, is a direct short, ie positive connected to negative) Check with the specifications.

Or, you could possibly wire the 2 in series, which would effectively cut your power-delivered in half and lessen the volume. That would give you an 8 ohm total load, which the amps could probably handle, but the smaller dash speakers would steal most of the available power because of their relative lower resistance compared to the larger door speakers. To counter that you'd need to put a small resistor in parallel with the dash speakers to even the balance between the door and dash speakers. What value? Who knows, you'd have to test and calculate to find-out.

That said, it would probably be best to spring for a small 4 channel amplifer--which would sound way better and also give you the ability to easily vary the amount of sound coming from the dash speakers compared to the door speakers. Amplifiers included in head units are generally cheap, over rated, and supply very dirty signals that sound like crap (compared to even small high-quality stand-alone amplifiers)--so it's generally better to not use those signals if you're trying to build a high quality sound system. One tip-off to a crappy and likely bogus amplifier rating is if that rating is quoted in Peak values and not RMS values (root mean square, basically the sum of the area under the graphed power curve--a better measure of sustainable power output that will keep your speakers under control).

Drew

posted by 67.10.24...


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