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Soldering Gun SID Pixel Fix
Desperate times call for desperate measures.
The SID has become a wear item in most cars due to the pixels going out. The problem lies at the connection of the ribbon connector to the mother board not having enough pressure applied to it and lines begin to disappear. I have tried the SID fix using first the sticky backed foam which worked for a little while then the lines begin to disappear again. Next I used a piece of rubber band across the connector for some added pressure which, again, worked for a little while then began to fail. At this point things began to get worse quickly to where the words and numbers on the screen had become pretty much illegible. So I felt like it was just about time to plunk down the $450+ for a new SID. But I had one more idea… what if I took a heated soldering iron and ran it across the connector to reseal the connection? Answer? Every single pixel is back , in full glory without a problem…first time. I ran it for a week before posting to make sure that things seem stable. So a week later and all pixels are still working. Glorious!
Opening up the SID.
On the 9-3’s that have the cup holder right under the SID, I opened up the cup holder and was able to get a finger under the SID and pull it out. Those without a cup holder, might have to remove the radio to get the SID out. It is pressure fit so it pops out with a little force. Once you pull it out, unclip the wiring harness and you can now remove it from the car.
Once removed, you will see 2 torx screws at the back, remove them.
The you need to remove the SID’s speaker cover plate. This is a plastic cover with plastic tabs, so carefully press out the tabs and remove the plate.
Now the main plastic body can be removed to expose the motherboard. A little finesse is needed to get the plastic cover off the motherboard and up and over the wiring harness attachment.
Once the plastic body is removed, there is one torx screw to remove at the back of the motherboard which hold it to the face plate. Remove that screw.
Now you can remove the motherboard and screen from the front face plate.
Once removed, on the bottom of the motherboard underneath where the SID screen attaches to the motherboard, there are 2 more torx screws to remove. Remove them.
The screen is attached to the board by a 14 pin connector that you must pry straight up from the board to get the screen unattached from the board. Use a small screwdriver to pry up the screen off the pin connector. Once the screen comes loose, you will have now exposed the ribbon connector which need attention.
Using the Soldering iron to fix the connection
Where the ribbon meets the board, is where the connection is lost. I took a soldering iron with a flat face and pointed front and ran the iron across the connector very quickly. It melted the plastic ribbon and slightly exposed the wiring. I did this very quickly to not to melt away the connection. Remember this was a last ditch attempt to save a pixel challenged SID screen. I ran over the connection twice very quickly and then checked my work before continuing. Pressing the screen back onto the 14 pin connector, I took that out to the car and plugged it in and started the car. Every pixel was back.
Reassembled the SID and plugged it back up.
I would use this method as a last ditch effort to save a SID. I am sure that if the soldering iron tip was too big or if you didn’t move fast enough over the connection, you could easily fry the connection and lose more, But I am sure that there are many out there driving around with a SID screen that looks more like Braille than legible words. If you’re one of those, this might be the fix. Good luck!
Pic#1 – SID Removed from plastic cover
PIC#2 – SID Screen removed from 14 pin connector with ribbon connector exposed
Pic#3 – Soldering iron used to heat connection
Pic#4 – Close up of Soldering iron tip used.
There are Many Documented SID Fixes out there with decent results:
I wanted to put the list of possible SID Pixel Fixes known to work so far. I see this as a progression of least intrusive/low risk to most intrusive/high risk.
1. Sticky Backed Foam across connection
2. Rubber band(s) across connections
3. Jewelers Screwdriver to press down on each connection
4. Ruler and ball point pen drawn across connection
5. Soldering iron drawn fast across connection
The ruler and ball point pen needs careful attention. If the ruler slips and the pen pierces the ribbon, that section will be lost forever.
I would imagine the soldering iron having similar problems if not done fast enough.
posted by 208.235.174...
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