1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Thanks Joe,
I already tried that with a 13/16" spark plug socket that had external wrench flats. It was close enough to 21mm. I had to drill out
the socket a bit to get the 1/4" extension through. No big deal.
The problem was there was so much torque on the nut that the 9mm flats
on the end of the shaft just rounded off. I ended up drilling with
titanium bits through opposite sides of each nut. This after I decided to
replace the strut inserts with Bilsteins so it was no worry destroying the
threads on the stock shaft.
Now for some advice on the "been there, done that" column.
Dean mentioned earlier that the nut could be loosened while still on the
vehicle. That's good advice. You don't get any easier access once the strut
is removed. Just be sure to break the torque only but do not remove the nut
for obvious reasons. Don't approach this thinking you can replace the bearings only. After all that labor you might as well spend the $150.00 to replace the mount as well as the bearing. My front end was knocking over every little bump and the rubber inside both mounts was deteriorating. It just makes sense to replace both since you are tearing down nearly the whole front end. Only one of my bearings showed obvious damage.
Once you have the springs removed from the strut you can set the strut assembly back in place on the ball joint and loosely attach the steering arm to allow some leverage to loosen the cartridge retaining nut. If you are keeping the old damper be sure to protect the top of the shaft as it sits loose through the mount hole. This is also an excellent time to replace CV boots, ball joint bellows and any brake work that is needed.
Doug P '99 93S 85k
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