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Today, I installed new headbolts for my 2000 SAAB Viggen Convertible! It wasn't a bad DIY project, at all. It took me about 2.5hrs and that was me being extra anal about the steps. In addition to replacing the headbolts, I was able to see how sludged up (or not) my engine was.
All the info for the installation was gotten from saabnet.com and genuinesaab.com:
http://www.genuinesaab.com/
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/NG900/index.html?bID=206262
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/NG900/index.html?bID=203603
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/NG900/index.html?bID=205097
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/NG900/index.html?bID=202768
All parts were purchased from eeuroparts.com:
1. Valve cover gasket p/n 8822041E
2. Headbolts p/n 5955794
3. PVC Bushing p/n 7515190
4. PVC Nipple p/n 9192949
5. PVC Hose/Check Valve p/n 9399973
I didn't use item 1 or 5, but bought them as "just in case" items. I might not have needed to use items 3 and 4, BUT unfortunately I broke the old nipple while trying to get it out of the valve cover...duh!!!
Tools that I used:
1. 1lb rubber mallet
2. 1/2" breaker bar
3. 1/2" torque wrench
4. T-30 and T-40 Torx bits
5. E16 reverse Torx socket head (bought a set from Advance Auto)
6. Needle nose pliers
7. Loctite Blue
8. Digital Camera Sony DSC-P72 :-)
I used the mallet to get the valve cover off after removing all the cover bolts. It took a 3-5 semi-hard hits to break the seal.
The needle nose pliers helped to get the old headbolts out of the recessed areas.
I'll start with lessons learned:
1. Getting the PVC nipple into the bushing and valve cover was kind of a BITCH!!! I finally got the nipple installed by not fully seating the bushing into the valve cover then using the nipple to push the bushing into the cover which then allowed the nipple to seat also.
2. There was metallic tube that was in the way of the three T-40 Torx bolts located by the timing chain side of the valve cover. The tube originates at the pipe being fed from the MAF. I had to loosen up the bolt holding the tube to this pipe in order to get some play in moving the tube out of the way of the T-40 bolts. I used a 7/16" wrench and a makeshift breaker bar for this.
3. I removed and replaced each bolt one at time as specified on the instructions from genuinesaab. BUT I torqued each new bolt to 44ft-lbs then moved one. AT THE END of that cycle, I went back and torqued each bolt an additional 90degrees.
Anywho, I am happy as HELL to say my upper engine is VERY clean and I didn't see any signs of sludge whatsoever. There was some varnish on the walls by the timing chain, but that seemed to be it.
BTW, this is my second Auto-RX rinse phase, so perhaps this is why it's so clean up there? I did not look at the innards when I first started Auto-RX, so I can't do any comparisons.
Also, I didn't check the breaking torque of the old bolts, but they seemed well torqued. Old bolts 1 - 6, 9 and 10 were totally dry, but bolts 7 and 8 were very oily.
Finally, when I turned my car on and let it idle for awhile, looked underneath and say a whole bunch of liquid pouring out!!! I was like, "HOLY SHITTE," until I realized it was my A/C condensate...duh!!!!
Now, maybe I'll look into a stage 2 or 3 ECU :-) :-)
posted by 70.161.78...
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