1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Not pulling the code, whether you pay for it or go to somewhere like Autozone (not sure if they still do it free), is financial suicide like Saabdoc says. When you have a code it makes WAY more sense to pull it, unlike trying to deal with a fault where you're not getting any code at all.
A saturated canister will many times cause some kind of running problem - at least intermittently - when the purge valve opens up to "purge" the vapor from the canister. When the valve opens with a saturated canister, the resulting enrichment will be more than the system is designed to handle which would result in a brief roughness in idle at least. A faulty purge valve will usually cause dips/drops in idle, if not a complete stall, when it cycles (if the valve doesn't cycle properly, it seems like a massive vacuum leak to the engine). Purge valve problems USUALLY especially show up right after you do a fill up.
BUT, when my purge valve started to go, it never created a CEL, and I never had a problem after fill up. My symptoms showed after the car warmed up, when I sat at idle at stop lights. The idle would dip, then surge (but never stall). That is when the purge valve cycles (other than the initial test performed by the system after start up - but not all years do that self test from my understanding). In the 99, there is an initial self test where a vent valve shuts and the purge valve opens. The system then checks to see if a vacuum is created in the tank - if no vacuum is created, it knows, or thinks, there is a leak somewhere in the ELCD system and USUALLY throws a code. After that, the system will wait until the engine has warmed sufficiently before it starts cycling the purge valve to purge the vapors trapped in the canister. It does not perform the purge cycles until the engine is warm. To cycle, the ECU sends a pcm or pwm (don't remember which) signal (I think it was 8hz) to the purge valve. A faulty valve will usually be "slow" and not be able to cycle properly given the frequency given, resulting in the valve "opening" to wide, too long, or not being able to close completely, resulting in the "dip" or rough running.
According to your post, you don't seem to be experiencing ANY of the typical symptoms of a saturated canister or faulty valve, so the problem MAY not even be connected and just a coincidence.
Also, I am not totally familiar with the 00 as mine is a 99 with the canister next to the tank, but my understanding of the wheel well mounted canister is that they are at least a little less susceptible to saturation from overfilling (compared to the type next to the tank like in mine), though it does happen.
posted by 98.229.227...
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