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, Sat, 30 Oct 2010 04:50:00
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Personally, I see the cutting-an-access-hole method as an emergency method, like if your car is stranded in a parking lot or on a public road. If your car is at home and you have a full day to work on it, I recommend you drop the tank. It's really not THAT bad, especially if you're outside the rust belt. I followed the instructions linked below.
I replaced my pump preemptively at ~125k and had sourced a used assembly with low miles. If you want to make the messy part of the job a little quicker, you could do the same, or for more peace of mind you could get a well-used one cheaply and swap out its pump motor ahead of time.
My car had seen about 9 northeast winters, and the nut on one of the fuel tank strap bolts was fairly stubborn. That had been my worst fear, so just in case, I'd found some 5/16" J-bolts at Lowes in case I broke something. Fortunately, the brackets on the body have keyhole-shaped slots, so I was able to remove the strap by just backing the nut off a few turns and passing it through the slot. The front ends of the straps also fit into slots, but may be difficult to remove until the tank is out of the way a bit.
To loosen the pump's lock ring, I followed someone else's advice and made a tool from a pair of 3/4" x 3.5" L-brackets (also from Lowes). I drilled holes so I could bolt them together into a U-shape with the legs spaced to match the lock ring tabs. Then I slipped my breaker bar through the brackets and used a cheater pipe to *gently* loosen the ring. This is key, any violent twisting will only break the tabs. WD-40 may help as well.
Other than that, follow the linked post and you should be fine!
posted by 67.251.8...
, Sat, 30 Oct 2010 04:50:00
, Fri, 5 Nov 2010 00:27:44, Sat, 30 Oct 2010 08:24:59
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