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Re: Keep us updated on your no-crank issue!
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Posted by SWEDECAR [Email] (#112) [Profile/Gallery] (more from SWEDECAR) on Mon, 2 May 2011 17:40:30 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Keep us updated on your no-crank issue!, John G, Mon, 2 May 2011 11:21:29
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Unfortunately, with this new generation gear selector switches it seldom helps to "row" the shifter back and forth as we did to fix the first generation NG900 cars around 94-96.

It is not the moving contact surfaces and the grease inside that is the culprit anymore.

It is a solder joint hidden inside an epoxied part of the switch where the wire harness coming in is soldered to the circuit board that further inside ends up at the greased contacts.
That's why it is now a heat soak problem whereas the older style switch was usually a cold soak problem creating a limp home and start in 3d gear with cold weather.

So you can row the gear shifter all day long but it doesn't affect the hidden solder joint going open when hot.
Actually, it is not going open completely. That would be too easy to fault trace. It is only reducing the power that can pass through the switch to the starter relay and therefore not having enough oomph to trigger the relay.
But if you hook up a sensitive voltage meter to the cable you will still see 12 volt or so under "unloaded" conditions.
If you on the other hand study the voltage under "loaded" conditions (trying to crank over the engine), you will see that suddenly you don't have enough voltage to trip the relay.

But if you fiddle long enough with the hood open, the switch has cooled down and everything is back to normal.

That's why a lot of shops can't find the problem because they don't know what they are looking for and how the problem occur. It's just like the CKP sensor going bad with heat. The car can be towed to the same shop over and over again and they just don't know what's wrong because the engine is cooled down at arrival and starts perfect.

Anders

SWEDECAR

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