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Update, several years later for anyone trying this out Posted by bender [Email]  (#268)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from bender) on Fri, 8 Sep 2017 11:31:50
In Reply to: UPDATE.... (long), bender [Profile/Gallery]
, Sat, 27 Aug 2011 07:08:51
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Had to do this again due to the bulbs failing. Either their quality was subpar or, if I remember correctly, I may have handled them with my bare hands leaving some oil from my fingers on them. I ensured to handle them with gloves this time. Make sure to replace all the bulbs that are ALWAYS on (they say "ILUM" or "ILU" on the back of the cluster motherboard).
The SID and cup holder does not need to be removed and can stay as part of the dashboard, however the cage that holds the radio needs to be removed carefully (hard if you've never done this). Make sure to protect the dashboard with something (like a folded up piece of paper a bunch of times or a rag) when using a screwdriver to force the tabs up from the cage. Otherwise you risk damaging the dash.
The hardest part about doing this was putting it back. When putting the dashboard back (careful, it's fragile and parts of it may have unglued, so this is a good time to use some epoxy to glue the decoration to the actual dashboard), there's a little screw that goes into a holder at its bottom left. It is important that, you lay the dashboard in place from the bottom *first* so that this holder fits correctly and *then* fit the top. Otherwise - like I found out - you'll fit the top and have a hard time pressing the dashboard in at the bottom. Impossible, without breaking something. This order matters because if you do it the wrong way, you'll be pressing the dashboard onto the foam part and it won't give way.
The vents from the back have to be popped into the dashboard vents with quite a bit of force. You have to - from the space where the radio is - hold the vent from the back and force it into the dashboard until you hear a click at the top and bottom. This is hard and needs force. The other side is more of a mess. You need to remove three bolds that hold the fuse box together and *move the fuse box out of the way* to make room for your arm to hold the vent in the back and repeat the procedure as in the right side. Prepare to scratch your arm. Oh, and of course, to actually gain access you have to loosen the kick panel under the steering wheel to access the vent. This MUST be done so that the vents click in to the dashboard grills. If you just lay on there without this step, it won't actually be connected.
All in all, not the easiest job but it was much easier this time. Oh, and, MAKE SURE you're careful when removing the screws from the speedometer cluster. There are four and if you drop one, it'll get lost somewhere in the abyss of your car. Ask me how I know...but thankfully, I found it. I was lucky...
Hope this helps someone else. Funny enough, my own post was very helpful years later.
_______________________________________ bender 2001 9-3 Viggen Laser Red 5 door 44k miles 2000 9-3 SE Midnight Blue 5 door (Sold)
, Tue, 23 Aug 2011 10:20:19, Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:22:37, Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:46:35, Sat, 27 Aug 2011 07:08:51, Fri, 8 Sep 2017 11:31:50 <-- Viewing This Message
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