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Remove the panel from the door
 Pry the plug out of the inner door handle to access one retaining screw
 Pry the door pull apart along its length on both sides to access two more retaining screws
 Remove the circular clip on the doorjamb edge of the panel by pressing in the center about 3/16" then using your fingers to work the circular disc back and forth while pulling gently
 Pry out and disconnect the trunk lock button on the driver's side door
 Remove all retaining screws, including two on the bottom the door panel
Disconnect the elephant hose between the door and the door frame by turning the connector counterclockwise and pulling it apart.
Remove the glove box and kick panels under the dash – you will get more practice removing circular clips.
Cut a length (about 15") of stiff wire, like bailing wire. Double about ¼" of one end over tight against itself. This will eliminate the sharp point when you push the wire through the rubber bellows. On the other end make a small loop and twist the wire around itself so that the loop will not pull apart. Tie a length (about 20") of heavy string to this loop.
Push the wire through one end of the rubber bellows inside the door frame and pull through the string.
Tie one lead of your speaker wire to the other end of the string and pull it through the rubber bellows.
Untie the string from the speaker lead and push the lead through one of the unused, larger holes in the door connector from inside the door frame, pushing toward the door side.
With the ends of both speaker leads flush with the surface of the door connector, reconnect this connector and push the leads on through the door half of the connector.
Cut out the perforated membrane for the door speaker. Reach through this hole and get hold of the speaker leads. Using one hand to feed and the other to pull, feed through sufficient speaker lead to reach the door speakers.
Use the wire/string tool push the wire through the rubber bellows inside of the door. Now here is where you will have to get both hand through the speaker hole in the door. Using the fingers on one hand, pinch and pull the end of the bellows that are tight against existing wires while pushing the fishing wire through this tight end of the bellows. Once you get the fishing wire through the bellows you are finished with the tough part of the job. Just pull the string through the bellows, tie it to the speaker leads, and pull the leads back through the bellows. Wash the blood off the back of your scraped up hands and apply Band-Aids as necessary. Also apologize for your language as necessary.
That's the hardest part of installing speakers in the NG900 doors. Simply run the other end of the leads to your amplifier, under the doorjambs and carpet.
DIN CONNECTOR:
Buy an 8-pin DIN connector from Radio Shack (Part No. 274-026). It costs $1.99. Also buy the shortest RCA cable that Radio Shack carries. This cable will have two wires with RCA connectors on both ends.
Cut the RCA cable about one foot from the male connector. The cable has a shield conductor (-) under the outside insulation and an inner (+) conductor in its center. Use a single-edge razor blade to carefully cut through the outer insulation about ½" from the cut end of the RCA cable. Unbraid the outer conductor and then twist it into a single wire. Remove about 1/8" of the inner insulation, exposing the inner conductor.
Refer to http://www.saabnet.com/sites/richard.bevan/fitting.html for an illustration of the DIN connector. You are looking at the side of the connector where the wires protrude. If you have a two-channel amp solder the inner conductors of the RCA cables to the front left and front right pins of the DIN connector. If you have a four-channel amp then make two another 12" length of the RCA connector from its uncut end, and solder the inner conductor of these wires to the rear right and rear left pins on the DIN connector. Solder all of the shield wires of the RCA cables to the metal shroud of the DIN connector (just to be sure, I also jumped the signal ground pin of the DIN to this metal shroud).
With the glove box and passenger side kick panel removed, you will be able to see the female DIN connector on the head unit (radio), but there is insufficient room to push the male DIN onto it. Remove the radio and enlarge the hole in the sheet metal frame that the radio slides into. I used a sheet metal nibbler. You may be able to find them at an auto parts store, or maybe Sears.
Reinstall the head unit and with a great deal of feeling in the blind, push the male DIN into the female connector on the radio.
Connect a long RCA cable (female on head unit end, male on the amp end) to your homemade DIN/RCA converter and you are on your way.
I ran the main power and amp starter wire run down the driver's side of the car and the speaker wires are on the passenger side – keep them separated to eliminate ignition noise.
I replaced the dash speakers with 3-1/2" Alpha Infinities, used 5-1/2" Alpha Infinities in the doors, and replaced the rear speakers with 9 X 6 JBLs. The door and rear speakers are wired in parallel to a two-channel Clarion (2 X 50) amplifier that is mounted to the back of the rear seat in the trunk (see Richard Bevan's audio help in the FAQ of saabnet).
Thanks largely to "Steve H.", I managed to do it myself even though I've never done any auto audio work before. None of this is as easy as it sounds. It must have taken me about an hour on each set of wires to the door speakers and another couple of hours for the DIN/RCA connection, but believe me the sound that you will gain is worth the effort.
Hope this helps.
, Tue, 17 Oct 2000 00:51:43
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