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, Sun, 12 Jul 2020 09:22:31
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Thank you for the message. The mechanic double checked his timing after I complained about the issue, he claims the timing is dead on. An update on the issue. The mechanic ended up doing a wet compression test and he confirmed low compression and that the rings were worn so he went ahead and replaced piston rings, as well as rod bearings. He also replaced the head gasket, valve cover gasket, and new head bolts. The head was also checked out by another shop. I went to pick my car up and he informs me that I still have a slight hesitation when giving the car gas. He never test drove it, only when I arrived was he finishing the job. The car appeared to have been running for a while and was well up to temperature, so I couldn't know if the major problem was resolved of the cold start rough idle, surging, and stalling. I drove home and once I got into the throttle a good bit on the highway, the car started stumbling and jerking like it was severely misfiring. During the time it was jerking, I couldn't gain much more speed, however it slowly increased. The check engine light was also flashing the entire time this was happening and eventually it turned solid. I also noticed a pronounced lifter knocking sound at around 2500 rpms, but the mechanic says it should go away. The next day I went to start my car on a cold start and the same problem I had before showed back up. The engine would idle at 1400 rpm and then back down to 600 and then cycle a few times doing that then it would stall. I would then go to give it gas to drive off and it would have a delayed reaction and almost stall. I went to the auto store and used their machine to capture the codes and there was an active P1300 and P1310. There was also a stored P1301. I understand the codes relate to catalytic damaging misfires. I had a spare DIC and that did nothing different, I unplugged the MAF to see if it would react different, checked the inside of the throttle body butterfly to make sure it wasn't dirty. He just replaced the spark plugs so I didn't even look at those. He says he has sprayed fluid to check for air leaks around the turbo intake. He currently has the car and says he is going to do a vacuum test. He also checked fuel pressure and says it is a little low at around 34 psi while car is idling. He says when he puts the key from on to off and cycles a few times doing that, the fuel pressure rises closer where it needs to be. We are going to start with replacing fuel filter. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
posted by 76.77.164...
, Sun, 12 Jul 2020 09:22:31
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