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Re: NG900/OG9-3 Rear Quarter Glass Posted by SPG Jr [Email]  (#1830) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from SPG Jr) on Fri, 6 Sep 2024 07:54:24
In Reply to: NG900/OG9-3 Rear Quarter Glass, bduch371  [Profile/Gallery]
, Mon, 2 Sep 2024 17:07:07
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I did it on a 99 Viggen, which I no longer own, several years ago, my memory may not be perfect on this. I may have also been addressing some rust between the wheel well and door so i did some trim removal that may not be needed for just the window. I think the window removal was covered in WIS but it is really a matter of carefully removing a lot of trim pieces to expose the entire window from the inside. There are a number of nuts that screw onto studs attached to the window AND a bead of butyl tape to seal it. The WIS instructions are important b/c I think it will spec the torque of the nuts. Not sure if the nuts took a bit of thread lock, WIS should mention it.
All of the trim surrounding the window needs to be removed, which will involve removing the back seat and back rest. I think you'll need to at least loosen part of the roof liner, the b-pillar and c-pillar trim, which involves removing other trim pieces and disconnecting the top of the seat belt. The b-pillar trim has several pieces to it which I recall being a pain to reassemble. Consider taking notes or pics as you remove trim b/c the order in which you reassemble it can be important. You don't need to remove the front seat but that could reduce your body contortions getting in and out of the back of a 3-door.
Once you've gotten trim out of the way and removed the nuts, carefully and patiently pry the window, working your way around it until the butyl tape gives. The butyl had a pretty good hold of my window. When working from the outside, be careful not to mar the paint on the body or window. The reason you want to work gradually around the window is, as beefy as that window seems, I was using enough force that I thought it possible to break the window by placing too much pressure in just the wrong place. No reason to rush the job at this point.
Make note of the factory placement of the butyl. Mark it out with a Sharpie or something b/c placing it wrong could result in a leak. Also roll a short length of the old butyl into a bead so you can replicate that bead diameter. Doesn't have to be perfect but an inconsistent bead could cause some issues when torquing the nuts. Clean the surfaces well before replacing the butyl tape, and try to avoid seams in the bead. Tighten the nuts gradually around the window, like you would head bolts, to apply consistent pressure on the butyl all the way around.
Installation, as is so often oversimplified, is the reverse of removal. It's not difficult but it requires patience and time. Count on a couple days work or one very long day.
Good luck, have beer ready, put cotton in the kids' ears.
, Mon, 2 Sep 2024 17:07:07
1, Fri, 6 Sep 2024 07:54:24 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 12 Sep 2024 10:18:35, Mon, 9 Sep 2024 18:46:34, Thu, 12 Sep 2024 10:16:00
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