1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
There is only the one float sensor. With a cold engine, the coolant level can be low and acceleration causes a fluid and shift of the gravitional vector and the float can signal a low coolant condtition. Once the engine warms up, the level rises and the low level is not signaled again. This is the common source of such problems. However, some sensor switches have failed in the past as well.
Did you check the level with a cold engine?
The OEM gear style clamps do not work well on the smaller ID hoses. And the rubber under the clamps yields causing the clamping pressure to be lost. Tighen up the clamps. There are small hoses around the stat, and also tighen the ones at the top and bottom of the expansion tank. These can have small leaks and you will not see stains. But if you remove the hoses, you will find deposits on the hose or the hose barbs on the atmospheric side of the clamps. So it is really not safe to claim that you have no leaks at all with the OEM clamps, especially if you have not tighened them up in the past. From my point of view, the clamps should be tighened down to prevent leaks, not only when a leak is suspected. Note also that if you remove smaller ID hoses, refitting the same hoses, using the same OEM clamps can lead to lots of leaking. For these I suggest getting all stainless clamps from the hardware store, and use the smallest clamp available. These seem to have curatures in the base of the gear section that is a much better match to the hose OD than the OEM clamps. Put some fiber based tape under the clamp to prevent the rubber casing of the hose from being cut and extruded by the gear clamp. Fold the tape upon itself so that there is no exposed adhesive.
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