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Re: 80K service for non-Saab Posted by Justin VanAbrahams [Email]  (#32) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Justin VanAbrahams) on Wed, 3 Aug 2011 14:59:40
In Reply to: 80K service for non-Saab, Son of Saab, Wed, 3 Aug 2011 08:50:09 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I recently bought an '01 PT Cruiser and have done a ton of research on them plus a TON of work on my own.
The timing belt is a ~90k service item, but PTs are non-interference engine designs so a snapped belt *probably* won't hurt anything. The issue you can run into is open valves actually hitting each other (versus the piston) and that leads to a pricey repair bill. You should be able to remove the upper/outer timing belt cover to inspect the belt and see what it looks like. 80k is very close to replacement time for sure.
Timing belt service on a PT is a PAIN. On an '01, you will likely want to do a full belt retrofit - it's the belt, water pump, some plastic covers, and a newer tensioner design. That kit is $300 at rockauto.com, twice that at a dealer. Pep Boys is probably somewhere in the middle. I believe labor is about six hours. If you're doing the belt, spend the extra on the retrofit kit. The early-design tensioner was not reliable.
Factory spark plugs are copper, so they are probably due for replacement. Replacing the plugs requires removing the upper intake manifold. The factory plug wires are pretty much garbage, they should be replaced at this point for sure. Be cautious about what you replace them with - like c900s, they are sensitive to wires and you're going to want decent quality ones. Pep Boys probably won't have any.
When you've got the upper manifold off to replace the plugs, you may want to consider replacing the valve cover gasket. There is no easier time (except when doing a timing belt - you'll have to do it anyway). Mine at 130k was leaking like a sieve. You may also want to pre-emptively replace the cam position sensor. All ChryCo cam sensors of this era are prone to failure. It's a cheap part, buy it straight from Chrysler as the aftermarket ones are of pretty low quality.
Check the upper and lower passenger side "dog bone" motor mount struts. They may be worn, and when they fail they can prematurely wear the CVs. They will also shorten the lifespan of the PITA passenger side motor mount which is pretty brutal to change. If you're doing a timing belt, it's worth considering changing that mount at the same time. Few people actually do, it rarely actually fails. But it's not horrifically expensive, and there is no better time to change it than with the timing belt.
Check the exhaust manifold. They are prone to cracking. They are pretty cheap - under $100 in the aftermarket.
Obviously check both accessory drive belts and the tensioner on the AC/PS belt.
Check the lower control arms and the front swaybar - at 80k the bushings down there are probably worn out. Mine at 130k were decimated. Each LCA has $15 worth of bushings and a $15 ball joint. $50 buys you a new LCA with preinstalled bushings and a new balljoint. You can get high-quality Moog ones for $70/side.
Check the bell crank on the rear Watts linkage. It's probably not in great shape either. I believe there is a revised design which lasts longer, the early ones fail early leading to a clunk.
If you haven't yet, be POSITIVE you do a transmission service. The 41TE requires routine fluid changes. 50k is the longest recommended interval from anyone I've talked to. Changing the filter ($15) will drop 5-6 quarts of the 9 quart (IIRC) capacity, so that's a pretty good if done regularly. I would recommend using a Chrysler "kit" here - their filter is high quality and the silicone gasket maker they use extremely good at its job. You may want to replace the pan with the Dorman version that incorporates a drain plug to make the next service easier. Your call.
I think that's the major stuff - at least what I can think of.
posted by 12.195.130...
, Wed, 3 Aug 2011 14:59:40 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 3 Aug 2011 20:28:38
, Wed, 3 Aug 2011 12:36:46
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