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The rears have sufficient travel and I would not alter the bump stops. Have some sealant/putty on hand to block water intrusion past the top rubber buffers into the trunk. You man need some thin wrenches for top end jamb nuts. Survey what you have with the new and old before starting. You need to get the top buffers compressed, but not too much. As these will deform from road forces over time, the 'fit' will change over time and if not compressed enough, you can get water and noise.
For the limited travel on the front shocks, the lower blob of the bump stop can be cut off. Your indy might be shy about doing this. Do not cut the top of the bump stop as that will ruin the ability to attach the gator.
When fitting the front Koni's, the supplied retaining nut is very hard to get tight. I suggest that you degrease the threads and use loctite blue. The holes for the pin wrench (you man need to make one, 1/4" or 6mm pins) can damage the bump stop. The supplied plastic washer is to protect the holes from damaging the bump stop. I do not like the idea of using antifreeze for a coupling fluid between the insert and strut tube. That might degrade in time. I used motor oil.
The front shock shaft nut at the top can be broken free and slackened with the tires on the ground. Actually it could be removed as the vehicle weight is compressing the spring. But you can't remove that nut, then jack up and proceed to remove the strut assy. You can do the final tightening of that nut at the end when the tires are on the ground.
Changing the front or rear shocks will not change the alignment (toe-in), so a realignment is not demanded when doing this. If control arms or control arm bushings are changed, then alignment should be checked. If steering was not feeling right, the toe-in probably should be checked.
Do you have new front upper mounts/bearings?
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