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Fuel/air ratio is around 14:1, turbo or non. With a turbo, you have considerably more air, and even more so when you tune it for extra boost. The reason everyone is going with FPR and RRFPR with upgraded fuel injectors is to compensate for the extra air wiht the tuned turbo.
Unless you're planning to supercharge (as we discussed in the previous thread) or turbo charge you really don't need to change (unless of course they're faulty...)
Now, here are some things you can do to tune the engine rather quickly:
1. Extractor pipes. Commonly called headers. These will go a long way to improve the scavenging of the cylinders on the exhaust/intake stroke. $250 or so from SAS. Specify 16 or 8 valve...
2. freer breathing intake. Get a K&N cone filter and replace that barrel intake. $75 or so from SPG9 or Swedish Dynamics.
3. If you want to spend more money, get a ported and polished, big valve, gass flowed head. Something like $750 or so. I think Swedish Dynamic can do that, SPG9 too, probably. A neat trick also is to simply replace the head with a freer flowing head off of a 2.3liter engine. Cheaper probably than getting the reworked head, but also probably not as much of a power gain.
I haven't played with timing on my old NA 900S, but I know the VW and BMW wrench heads have access to kits that allows them to adjust the cam timing. Don't know that you want to fiddle with that too much. Check with SPG9 and Swedish Dynamics on that. If you do, the car can become a screamer, but at the expense of drivability. The idle will become more loapy, less smooth.
Mess with air first, in that you need to make it freer breathing. Then worry about fuel delivery. Afterall, an engine is really nothing more than an air/fuel pump...
, Thu, 22 Mar 2001 20:33:52
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