(1) You will need to add a piece of metal to the intake piece before drilling and tapping it. Unfortunately I don't remember how thick this was, I would say at least 1/4". As I recall, you want it just thick enough so that the tip of the nozzle is flush with the inner wall of the intake pipe. Measuring a spare jet, it seems the length of the threads is about 1/4". Naturally you will need to use aluminum, which I hear requires special welding equipment. Cost me $50 to have the little extra bit welded onto the pipe.

(2) Sorry, not familiar with this.

(3) Yes, you should have a filter between the reservoir and pump, presumably to protect the pump.

(4) Solenoid need to be near the injectors? I don't remember that. However, you are correct in that it electrically activates the pump, and carries full current for the pump, which as I recall can be quite substantial (over 25A). So, you would want the power wires and thick/short as manageable, to avoid voltage drop and power loss.

(5) If you are already achieving 20+ psi in favorable weather, I would start with a smaller jet and work your way up if it's not sufficient. Start with the 0.7. When I was running 20 psi or just a little over, I was using the 1.1 jet. Now I have dropped down to 15-16 psi and I am using the 0.7, albeit I am having it come on sooner (8 psi vs 10).


(6) I would definitely recommend using a lower psi setting than the stock 10. 10 psi for the pump activation is better than nothing, but better on a dyno run than in real world use. On the dyno, you start at low rpm and so the boost/fuel has a chance to build rather slowly, ie 10-20 psi still takes a while. On the open road, you could be cruising at 2600 rpm and nail the throttle, and you will hit full boost very rapidly, and by the time the water has an effect you will already be at 20 psi. Thus, I like the lower setting better. In fact, I may set mine a hair lower. You can actually keep lowering it if you like - with the 0.7 nozzle - until you get some sputtering or bogging at low boost, then you know your water is on too early. It's easy to watch if you hook up an LED in the dash to indicate pump activation, alongside a calibrated boost gauge.

Have fun!


Aaron Gilbert
1987 9000T 309k miles


posted by 64.40.5...

• Question for SteveC (water injection), Bob Davis, Thu, 29 Jul 2004 11:27:36
  • yes becool with aquamist jet, steveC, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 12:10:17
    • More questions, Bob Davis, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 12:36:19
      • Response to Steve and Aaron, Bob Davis, Sat, 31 Jul 2004 06:52:05
        • Re:, steveC, Sat, 31 Jul 2004 09:31:50
          • Re: Re:, Bob Davis, Sat, 31 Jul 2004 09:59:08
      • Re: More questions (long), steveC, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 21:00:22
      • Not SteveC, but can answer a few things. :), Aaron Gilbert, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 20:43:19 <-- Viewing This Message
        • Re: Not SteveC, but can answer a few things. :), steveC, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 21:12:00
          • And to add more on (6):, Aaron Gilbert, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 21:25:06
    • correction, steveC, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 12:12:02

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• Prev by Date: Great - a necessity as far as I'm concerned nm, Steve88SiS, Fri, 30 Jul 2004 20:30:29
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