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, Sun, 14 Nov 2004 20:34:15
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Jak has a lot more experience with this stuff than I do, but because I don't have the knowledge, the money to pay someone who does, or the time to experiment, I decided the best I could do was read up on some old posts here on the board & surf the net, and make a choice. I chose the Volvo stuff. Some info:
--Volvo AMM more accurate at higher air flow (thanks to Jak for posting test numbers), allows ECU more control of air/fuel mix at higher RPMs
--Low-impedence injectors a bit better at idle; good if you have larger ones
--See link below for dyno results from SteveY back in 2001 (Note: NOT a stock engine)
--Cost is low if using a pull-a-part junkyard (my entire set-up, including injector cleaning, was about 100 dollars, and would have been cheaper had I not bought an AMM from a junkyard in Minn.)
When I got it installed and did some runs with my wideband, I found that the car idled and ran in closed loop just fine -- my gas mileage is surprisingly good, given the heavy foot and 4-speed tranny. I did tweak the AMM a bit to get it to run in closed loop.
On boost, the AFR was good at ~12.5:1 (I run 11-12psi on a ~9.5:1 CR engine until I can get an APC installed, FMIC finished, & downpipe made). If I kept in the pedal, the AFR goes pretty rich, so I know I have more room to play with when I get the APC/FMIC and run more psi. SteveY reported a lean 15:1 AFR w/3.0 FPR at 5800RPM on one dyno pull (237 at the wheels). But given that he was running 20 psi, I'd say that's a pretty good indicator that you should do all right at slightly lower boost levels. Looks like the fuel curve wasn't perfect for him, but it seemed adequate.
As for confusing your mechanic -- I doubt you will. It's basically the same stuff that Saab used, but with slightly different wiring at the AMM and injector harness. Maybe keep a note in the glovebox about how the AMM wires have been moved around. Also, if you tell him that you are using injectors with ballast resistors and the car dies and you get no fuel, then he'll know to check the resistors :-)
Would I be better off with a Saab turbo ECU & 30# Fords? I don't know. I chose the Volvo stuff due to lack of experience, time, money, & resources to do testing.
Hope this helps...
posted by 24.19.252...
SteveY's dyno post from some time ago...
, Sun, 14 Nov 2004 20:34:15, Mon, 15 Nov 2004 05:48:37, Mon, 15 Nov 2004 05:54:25, Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:17:06
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