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OK, so my hands look like hell, and I've got bruises everywhere from all the slidin around on the ground and wrestling with metal, but that box is in and working! The way I looked at it, I had no choice, the timing was right this past week, plus I just had to try it - replacing a dying tranny from below without pulling the whole kit from the top. I know many of you advised to not do it, and I really questioned myself based on all your good and respected opinions, but that's just who I am. Having pulled and replaced an engine (twice) last year, I knew that route well. The only real difficulty I encountered the below way was the discomfort and awkwardness from working so much on the ground, plus the up and down stuff. I'd finish for the day and just be exhuasted and in pain. Asperin kept me going. Thanks Bayer. I also lost 10 pounds in the process.
As far as the most difficult stuff, like how I got to the tough nut and bolt locations, I didn't find them all the difficult. I used whatever tool and leverage combination worked. The nut on the rear was accessable with a short box/open 13mm combo that has the angle at the box end. I was able to fit it, then use a large screwdriver as a lever against the crank pulley and twist it loose. All I had to do was move it that first inch and the rest was easy. Same with the other bolts regardless of their difficult positions. Reinstalling and tightening was the same thing.
The lowering and raising was a matter of using a 2 ton trolley jack, plus the stock Saab jack, plus whatever combination of wood and brick shims and blocks worked to keep the thing steady and secure along it's 18 inch journey down and up. Because I fully intended to use a silicone sealant on both sides of the gasket, that was the last step before easing it up the remaining 4 inches. I spread a thin layer of copper Permatex on the tranny side mating surface first (it was clean), then slid the gasket on*, then put a thin layer on top of that before easing it up for the final mating. Before then I had positioned the tranny by pushing, sliding, tapping the jack. The main visual guide along the way was the clutch shaft and pilot bearing hole. I knew if they were directly in line, and perpendicular to each other, the box was good to go. It mated up with no problem.
*OK here's where I almost blew it - with the tranny up so close to the block, then applying sealant and the gasket, uhhh, I forgot about the oil pump sump tube blocking the way. I couldn't lower the box any more than an inch form it's position because of the bracing I had around it at that point, so from underneath I had to get in a most awkward position to be able to wedge my hand and arm into the space between the block and tranny and delicately manuever the metal gasket under the sump tube. Whatever sealant I removed from the arm and hand action I had to reaply. The other alternative would have been to apply the sealant and gasket well before it was raised, but that means the sealant is already drying before you can apply pressure against it. I didn't worry about any excess silicone finding it's way into the engine, mainly because of how little I used, plus the engine remained inoperable for another day, thus allowing any sealant squeezed inside the block during the tightening to cure.
Another surprise was having to remove either the exhaust system from the manifold to the cat (not possible in my case since they are one unit, and I would have had to remove way more of the exhaust system), or remove the right side inner driver to both lower and raise both the old and new box. Then there's disconnecting the shift rod coupling by removing the taper pin. If I was not able to remove the pin on the old box, I would have had to either disconnect or remove the steering rack to make room. The tranny also has to be in a forward gear such as 4th to push that rod in and avoid the rack tubing. Perhaps just removing the rack bolts and sliding it as far back as possible would have worked if the coupling could not be removed because of the pin. I also removed the primary gear case and front engine mount to have room in the front. All told there was about two inches of play front and rear to lower it. Without the front mount on, the engine was propped up with two cut pieces of oak wood bracing the exhaust manifold and a part of the engine front plate near the starter (where the intake manifold brace is bolted). That step I made sure was done right to avoid the engine from falling in on me. Another option would be to have a chain keep it suspended from above.
Other details about this were posted on the C900 BB.
The first official test drive was last night on my way to a job, which was part of the reason for my rush and long hours all this week, as I HAD to get to this particular high profile job (an all woman comedy/acting showcase) for the big $. (I'd have rented a car if mine wasn't done, sure, but it ain't the same). At first I took it slow and easy, not laying on the gas pedal or reving or boosting too high, carefully listening and feeling for anything unusual. I was so happy to hear nothing but happy SAAB sounds! On the way back, part of it uphill, I hammered and shifted like I haven't in a loooong time. Felt so good to have power in 4th without all that noise and vibration. Accelerating in 5th again is like visiting an old, quiet friend.
Would I do it again from below? Sure, now that I know what to do and avoid, but I'd much rather do it with a lift, or from a pit. Or hire a masseuse. An assistant wouldn't hurt either. All I had was a silly blond lab wanting to crawl under the car with me. Anyway, it feels good to be back in the saddle! After a week of eating oatmeal and canned food, I celebrated first with a meal at the local Fatburger on my way to the taping job, then with pizza and beer afterwards. 10 lbs, come back to Pappa!
posted by 207.200.116...
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