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2.1 litre (92 mm bore), lightened, balanced bottom end w/ forged Cosworth pistons
T7 head; gas flowed; bigger valves, w/ custom intake
Custom intake manifold
Liquid/air IC
T3 w/stock .48 turbine; trim 55 (Cosworth spec) compressor w/ 7 degree angled blades; 360 degree thrust bearing
3" custom downpipe; no cat or center muffler; 2.5" rear half system (Simons/Jetex)
Custom mapped DI conversion
LH 2.2 (non-lambda version) remapped w/ 9000T2.3 inj's (33.9 lbs) and RRFPR
Blitz SBC III i-D boost controller
7,000 rpm rev limit; boost set at 1.3 bar, dropping to 1.2 at peak power rpm
(looking at the torque graph, boost must have peaked a lot higher than that at low/mid rpm).
Re-mapping and power measurement ere done on static dyno at Beek Auto Racing; widely acknowledged by the industry as being spot on target (for comparison; a factory standard Scooby WRX posted 227 hp here, and a Volvo S60R 283 hp).
Believe me, I've seen and tried all the shortcuts. They can lead to a high HP number at a dyno pull on a good day, but will prove inconsistent and less than reliable in day-to-day operation. Driveability will suffer, too.
Apart from that, the best real world performance comes from optimising the area under the torque/power cuves over as wide an rpm band as possible, not just chasing after a randomly chosen peak hp #. (Note that the graph indicates over 200 hp from just over 3,000 rpm up to the redline).
That, and you want to turn your attentino to throttle response on a smallish turbo engine. Plumb a BIG turbo, a truck-sided IC with lots of pipework and a muiltitude of contorted bends into your system, don't lighten your rotating assembly (especially flywheel) and although you will have the capability for say 400 hp, on a winding road (or in traffic) you won't see where the lower-powered, properly engineered car goes.
posted by 82.204.0...
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