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Here's what I did
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Posted by SteveW (more from SteveW) on Fri, 24 Jun 2005 12:14:46 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: balance chain tensioner blanking plate, DUTCH, Fri, 24 Jun 2005 06:41:46
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On my 2.3. This was a performance oriented move, and I tried to up overall oil flow by limiting loss thru the BS bearing. The JB weld would work great. If you're all the way in there check your CPS, if you have one mounted under the front pully.

1. Tensioner. I just used a piece of thick aluminium under the tensioner (with 518) after stripping the parts out of it. BTW, I would not recommend just removing the chain from the pan and leaving the tensioner. I tried to loosen the bolts from the balance shafts while the chain was still on and all the pieces came flying out of the tensioner.

2. Front BS bearing. Oil is supplied thru the front retainer/bearing thru a small hole in the retainer. I tapped this hole and put a set screw in it. Some oil may leak out past the retainer but most of it is stopped.

3. Idler gear. If you cut off the part of the post the gear rides on, then use a shorter bolt with a washer and red RTV, you plug this oil passage.

4. I did not block the rear B/S bearing oil supply. I left the shafts in place. I considered pulling the bearing with a cam bearing tool, then rotating the bearing so that the oil hole did not line up, but didn't know if there was a channel all around the back of the bearing, which would have negated the effect.

5. You have to have the balance chain drive gear on the crank to serve as a spacer to position the oil pump drive. I had my old spacer turned down (removing the teeth) so that it was just that, a spacer. It also cannot whip any oil into a froth that way.

I didn't stop all the oil flow/loss this way, but most of it.

posted by 69.39.6...


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