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There are some pictures on my 'Saabstories' website (link below) showing how the MSS sleeve looks when installed; this should help you figure it out. You need to click the 'Transaxle Autopsy' link down the left side, then click the page selector along the top to get to pictures 33-40. Scroll down a bit and you'll see some pictures of the freewheel assembly; you can click one for a larger view, read the captions, and that probably will tell you all you need to know. Be sure to continue on to pictures 41-48 and 49-56 for more relevant photos.
In case you want a bit more detail:
-- 1) You have to split the transaxle into its two halves (the front 'bell housing' section and the rear section that contains the gears.) The input shaft will stay with the front section and slide out of the freewheel hub; make sure you don't lose track of the little roller bearing that goes on the end of the shaft! (There's a picture of it in the 49-56 pictures; sometimes it comes out with the shaft but sometimes it stays down in the freewheel hub, in which case you have to tease it out with your pinkie finger.)
-- 2) Once you have the front section out, you can remove the sliding freewheel locking sleeve. That's the thing with teeth that engage the freewheel hub to lock out the freewheel. There's an external snap ring in a groove around the end of the input shaft that stops it from sliding all the way off; remove this with snap ring pliers and you'll be able to slide off the locking sleeve completely.
-- 3) Now slip your MSS sleeve over the input shaft and then slide the locking sleeve back on. You'll see that the MSS sleeve is just wide enough to keep the locking sleeve pressed back all the way, so it can't slip out of the locked position. Re-install the snap ring to keep the freewheel locking sleeve on the shaft.
Now your freewheel locking sleeve is locked in place and you can reassemble the front and rear halves of the transaxle. Be sure to remember to put the little roller bearing on the end of the input shaft that goes into the freewheel hub, and be careful not to bang it up as you insert the shaft into the hub. You can leave out the fork that slides the locking sleeve, since it won't be sliding anymore; you also can eliminate the nylon lever on the top of the transaxle if you want. On the most recent one I did, I plugged the hole with a black plastic 1-inch plug sealed in place with a bit of silicon.
One more note: In the pictures, I removed the input shaft from the transaxle housing. You do NOT need to do this to install the MSS sleeve; you can just leave the shaft in the housing. But there are a few advantages to removing it, which you do by removing a snap ring inside the housing:
-- The input shaft is easier to handle when it's out of the housing.
-- The input shaft seal is much easier to pry out and install when the input shaft is out.
-- If you're replacing the clutch (and why not, now that you've already gone to all the trouble of removing the drivetrain) you can use the input shaft as an alignment tool to line up the disc with the flywheel. Once you've reinstalled the clutch, THEN reassemble the transaxle.
It should seem pretty obvious once you've seen the pix. Good luck!
posted by 68.227.170...
, Sun, 8 Nov 2020 18:47:43
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