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You summed it up pretty well. The DC is not intended to go through the cap or it would have to handle a huge amount of currnet. Only the AC component can get through the cap and when it does it goes to ground and is removed from the DC signal. Thing is the cap does not pass all of the AC to ground. The amount it passes will depend upon the ESR and the capacitance. The lower the ESR and the higher the capacitance, the better.
I am _not_ selling these. If you want you could make one yourself with a high quality low ESR capacitor and a fusable link on the positive side for protection. The one this guy had tooled up is a very nice protected package. (The leads will not break off and all is encased in shrink wrap.) If you do want to do it yourself it is very important to get the lowest ESR capacitor you can find. (Not radio shack, maybe Digikey, Newark, or MCM.) I would also advise using a fusable link incase the cap ever shorts so you will not have a lead wired from the positive to the negative terminal.
A handbook of Jim Uhl's advised a capacitance of 0.5 uF or more. This one is either 50 or 500 uF the engineer couldn't remember as he had them tooled up a few years ago. It is about the diameter of a C battery and a bit longer than a C battery. Perhaps current caps are smaller but this one fit fine. I zip tied it to the positive lead coming off the alternater.
If my friend is ever in the office while I am in his area I will find out what e-mail address he wants people to contact him via. By the time you get done trying to make one you will easily spend more than ten bucks.
I tried a regular capacitor from Radio Shack and it did _not_ work. The one this guy sells does work. Again I want to reiterate that it does not eliminate the alteranter whine, but did _greatly_ reduced it in my case.
-Joe
Scott,
When I find out how the engineer wants to be contacted, can I post that on this BB or is that seen as a "Forsale" post? It is a bit of a grey line and I do not want to offend anyone.
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