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Sore back for sure
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Posted by GregD (more from GregD) on Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:51:45 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: GregD, what is your experience with, DET, Mon, 15 Jan 2001 12:23:46
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Tedious but not awful to do the rear seal, oil pump o-ring and HB in the car. The key is having a cut-down 30 mm socket (28 mm after 90??) to squeeze in for the crank bolt. I get it off ok with a std socket on an 18in 1/2 drive breaker bar but my torque wrench will only fit with the shortened socket. The other major stumbling block is holding the flywheel to tighten and loosen the crank bolt. I purchased the Saab tool for this 8 years ago and could kiss it every time I use it. There are many tricks that will be posted here regarding this but if you work alone, the tool or it's equivalent (which can be welded up starting with a piece of starter ring gear) is the way to go. Absolutely locking the flywheel is a must IMHO. Also have a full can or two of brakeclean or the like to degrease this tradionally sloppy area before disassembly.

Everything can be done topside except unscrewing the speedo cable which frequently blocks access to one bolt head. Removing the alternator after draining coolant and disconnecting heater hoses gives lots of working room from either side. Removing the alternator is really optional but if you need bushings it's a good time to do them. You will also want to check the regulator brushes.

One more thing, if the bracket for the AC compressor isn't slotted, be sure to grind a slot in it (bottom bolt hole) before you reinstall it. The removal process w/o it being slotted in a car with hydraulic side engine mounts will surely make you appreciate the value in doing so.


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