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I second CGWIZ , that was my problem last time Posted by Notnoel [Email] (#23) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Notnoel) on Mon, 3 Mar 2014 06:32:11 In Reply to: Re: Stalled, completely dead, bill schultz [Profile/Gallery] , Sun, 2 Mar 2014 09:18:47 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I had this happen. It is also the easiest to fix. Just attach a second grounding wire (use one of the small 8 mm posts and nuts to attach. Run it either to the body or the grounding point below the fuel rail is a good choice too.
When testing the alternator, getting good voltage may cause you to overlook the bad ground from the alternator body to the engine. A lot of folks will test the alternator this way and be mystified as to what the problem is since everything will test out OK, because the voltmeter itself is completing the formally broken circuit.
Then loosen the belts on the alternator and see if there is any wobble in the main shaft. If there is any noticeable movement, it's bearings are bad and the unit is toast. If so, go a head and pull it. Once you get it out, remove the regulator before turning it in for a core charge. It's good to keep a spare regulator in your emergency kit (see below). If there's no wobble in the shaft move to the next level of diagnosis.
Your next stop will be the voltage regulator. The easiest way to swap this is to get the gasket for the oil filter housing (or have some anaerobic sealant handy) and pull that. That will give you access to the two screws that hold the regulator into the alternator's casing. You can often get the thing working again by simply gently pulling on the two magnets/contacts - pull them out a1/16 of an inch or so. This will temporarily rejuvenate the alternator while you order a new regulator.
I keep a tube of sealant and spare regulator in my emergency road kit. Regulators are relatively cheap ($20-30). This fix has gotten me off the side of the road once or twice. You can often get a new regulator without having to order it - they are pretty common.
If y9ou get through all of these and it still is dead, the windings or diodes are probably toast and you'll need to pony up for a new alternator.
If both of these measures (with new regulator)
->Posting last edited on Mon, 3 Mar 2014 08:08:10.
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