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Re: Doug M..a question.......with paint Posted by DougM [Email]  (#211)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from DougM) on Sat, 26 Apr 2003 16:16:24
In Reply to: Doug M..a question.......with paint, Larry, Sat, 26 Apr 2003 11:59:31 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Well, stripping it to bare metal is the best option...you remove the old paint and any fillers and primers that could be under there(who knows what it is and will it last with new paint)....Personally, I like PPG products...the viggen blue 99 was a base coat/clearcoat system. I used their DBU paint(191576 is lighting blue metallic)...DCU2042 clear, DCX61 hardener, DT870 reducer and DRR1170 reducer. One reducer is for the paint and the other is for the clear. $600 for paint and clear....and another $400 for other materials such as primers, sandpapers, tape, paper, scuff pads, clean-up thinnner for the guns, wax and grease remover, duraglas, bondo(both USC brand)..
Mine was not oven baked or stripped to bare metal....all the work was done in my one car garage. I did strip it to bare metal where I found some rust holes and also where I found old body fillers. I also paid a friend of mine to come over one evening and spray the outside(I cut everything in...door jambs, trunk, engine bay)...it was painted last July and I have yet to get a chip in the paint...Hell!! the car has never gotten wet..I just dust it off when it needs it.
We did have bugs invade the garage when the sun was going down that night...but most of them sanded out of the clear. I'm happy with my results considering we used no booth...A wet sand and buff can make the finish better than factory(sanding of the clear removes the orange peel).
Good luck and post some pics of the progress.
posted by 68.68.170...
Doug's 99 pics...look at all the albums..
, Mon, 28 Apr 2003 04:59:52, Sat, 26 Apr 2003 16:16:24 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 28 Apr 2003 08:09:17
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