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Below is copy of my earlier post..... Posted by MI-Roger [Email]  (#882) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from MI-Roger) on Fri, 1 Jul 2005 16:56:44
In Reply to: Serpentine Belt, GaryH, Fri, 1 Jul 2005 13:09:45 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
My recommendation is to replace: the upper idler pulley, the tensioner pulley (tensioner should be OK), go with the short belt option, and abandon the lower/center idler pulley in place.
assume you already have experience replacing the serpentine belt. If not, search for previous posts regarding replacing this part.
Beware of aftermarket pulleys. They don't always fit correctly and aren't much cheaper than Saab OEM parts. I had to send my aftermarket ones back to the supplier and buy OEM ones from my local Dealer in mid-job because the AFT ones didn't fit correctly.
Saab used two different styles of upper idler pulleys whch are not interchangeable (different bolt diameters, pulley faces, and washers). Use your VIN to be certain you get the correct one.
You remove and dismantle going in, you install new on the way out. What I mean is, even though the top idler is the easiest to remove and install, don't install the new one until the belt tensioner (and center idler if you do it also) is re-installed.
The belt tensioner mounts via a single bolt located dead center of the spring housing.
I recommend going with the short-belt option and abandoning the old center idler pulley in place. If you are intending to replace the center idler (the one directly above the crankshaft), drape shop towels over the engine sub-frame to prevent the bolt and washer from dropping into the frame and being lost forever. You will drop these parts - it is inevitable! The other trick is to insert the bolt and washer through the bore in this pulley while it is on the bench, then criss-cross two pieces of duct tape over the bolt head to hold it in place. This will transform the pulley into a crude hand-wheel, and you can use the pulley OD to tighten the bolt! Just remember - you will need to pull the duct tape off with needle nose pliers after the pulley is mounted on the engine face. Don't wrap the tape over the rim of the pulley, and also be certain you create pull tabs on the end of the tape to grab easily with the pliers. Take extreme caution with this procedure - you will be threading a steel bolt into an aluminum boss on the face of your engine; blind! You do not want to cross-thread this!
Plan on three hours to do this, much less if you go the short-belt route.
posted by 68.40.14...
_______________________________________ Saabs owned: 2008 9-5 Aero Sedan, sold at 227K miles 2006 9-3SC 2.0T - Wife's daily driver 2000 Viggen Convertible - Sold May, 2022 1964 Quantum IV Formula Car - Retirement project 2000 9-5lpt Sedan, sold at 318K miles
, Fri, 1 Jul 2005 16:56:44 <-- Viewing This Message
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