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Did this today for the first time. Got the part from eEuro, and used the factory part, which is a Valeo filter in a GM European Parts division box.
It came with installation diagrams that actually worked well. Here's a text version from me:
1: Remove fuse #22 (40 amps). This is a fan fuse and the directions say to remove it so you don't get anything important caught in a fan. Not sure why this would happen, but I'm attached to my fingers so I pulled the fuse.
2: Remove the four Torx screws under the lower edge of the glove compartment (GC). These hold on a panel under the GC. I forget which size, but all the Torx screws you'll remove are the same size.
3: The panel will drop down a bit and you can pull it out of the two clips that are at the front of the footwell.
4: Remove the 3 Torx screws that hold the bottom of the GC.
5: Remove the 3 Torx screws that hold the top of the GC.
6: Gently pull out the GC. There is a two-connector electrical plug on the left side for the GC light and a flexible hose for the A/C inlet. They pull off easily.
7: There is a curved carpeted panel at the bottom left corner of the footwell. It has 2 push-the-center-pin-to-release plastic caps holding it in place. Push the center pins and pull the panel off.
8: Dead center in the foot well, about 1 foot up, is a metal frame with electrical connectors on it. The connectors are unusual and you have to press a plastic tab that lets you pivot the metal latch up to release the connectors. You only need to undo the left one. I have no idea what they go to.
9: On the left, all the way forward, is a plastic panel held in place by six hex head screws (6mm, I think). All are reasonably accessible. Undo all of them. The passenger air filter is behind this panel.
10: Pull the panel off and you can see the end of the filter. It just pulls out. Very easy. I have fairly large hands and there was lots of room. But you have to undo the funky electrical connector (step 8) to slide it out. You can bend it around the connector, but why bother when the connector is so easy to remove.
11: If you have a narrow brush, go in and sweep out the filter compartment.
12: There are two parts to the factory filter. The charcoal filter and frame with its foam gasket, and another foam gasket that has cut-outs for a couple of pipes or something. This is harder to do, but I don't see a reason why it has to be done. Here's where thin hands are useful.
13: Slide the new filter in... it only goes one way, but you can force it and have it go in wrong. Arrows tell you the correct orientation.
14. Do everything else in reverse and you're done.
It helps if you take off the end panel on the dash. With this off you can see to get at some of the 6 hex head screws without a lot of weird contortions.
15: Reinstall fuse 22.
Tools:
I use a Stanley ratcheting screwdriver with interchangeable 1/4" hex drive bits. It takes Torx bits and a 1/4 drive socket adapter. I back this up with a stubby little 1/4" drive ratchet wrench.
That's it. Took me 45 minutes or so on my first try. I just sat on the ground outside the car--no need to twist your back up and stand on your head. You spend most of the time on dis-assembly and re-assembly.
Hope this helps. But compared to the 10 minute job of doing this on my 9Ks, it's ridiculous.
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