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Heater Bypass Valve Failure Poll Results (longish) Posted by TonyJ [Email]  (#407)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from TonyJ) on Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:55:13
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First, I am impressed with how many responded-- Thanks to you all! The responses have slowed now, so I made an excel spreadsheet and computed some simple statistics. Had to search the list to find/estimate missing data, e.g. model year that I forgot to request as noted by NJ-PA Don.
Synopsis of results: 58% of 69 poll responders replaced it (50.7% because it failed) after an average of 76K miles (min 20K, max 195K, median 75K); no strong correlation with model year (only one 2005 response). There is a plot on my Saabnet Member Gallery in the 9-5 Heater Bypass album:
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/members/gallery.html?memberID=407&do=show&id=12539
If anyone is a RMA or statistics guru and would like to work this further, I would be happy to share the spreadsheet.
These results show an extremely high failure rate. Fortunately, no one reported serious consequences like overheating. Saab must have similar data, but there appears to be no improvement with model year. Must it be safety related to initiate a recall? The 9000 and 9-3 (and most other cars) don't have this problem because they were designed to work without a bypass valve..hopefully the new 9-5 follow suit.
Recommendations:
1. Next time you are at HD, Lowe's, or a HW store, spend a few bucks on 3/4" brass hose-barb fittings (see Emergency Road Fix picture in the 9-5 Heater Bypass Gallery Album mentioned above). You can also carry epoxy to block the holes in the failed bypass valve as bobc suggested.
2. If you are DIY oriented, buy a GM replacement and prepare it as shown in the 9-5 Heater Bypass Gallery Album. I will probably wait until there are about 20K miles on the new stock valve before replacing it. Any suggestions for other alternatives are welcome...for example, Saab4me found a similar 3-port valve, but the pipes are all small and the input points the wrong way. PLEASE KEEP US INFORMED if you try this solution or improve upon it.
3.Carry a spring clamp tool (many have recommended a cable operated one from Sears -$40) or replace the 3 hose clamps with stainless screw-type clamps that are much easier to work with in the cramped space. See the link below for excellent replacement procedure. Dave Chapman pointed out that you just need to drain the expansion tank - not the whole system.
Thanks again to all responders. Other comments?
http://www.fixmysaab.com/9-5_repair/cbv/step1.asp?nsteps=2&nointro=1
, Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:55:13 <-- Viewing This Message, Sun, 28 Dec 2008 18:17:33, Wed, 24 Dec 2008 12:31:33, Sun, 28 Dec 2008 09:45:36, Sun, 28 Dec 2008 17:59:49
, Thu, 25 Dec 2008 16:26:40, Sun, 28 Dec 2008 10:08:47, Wed, 24 Dec 2008 20:44:35
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