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So nice to see the site back up. I felt lost! Sorry to see we lost a week’s worth of questions and answers. I thought this information concerning turbo failures should be made available again.
2003 – 9-5 – 3.2T Linear – 4 Cycl with a Garrett G17 Turbo – 132,000 miles – Synthetic Oil every 5,000 like clockwork
At start up I was getting small puffs of smoke from the exhaust on a random basis. Expected the turbo was wearing out but figured I would wait until it got more regular. One day the turbo shaft broke in two. Burned up approximately 2 quarts of oil in about one mile of city driving getting the car into the driveway. Turbo was replaced.
In the meantime it appears that the failure sent a mass of metal shavings into the oil. The shavings were very clean and bright, giving the impression they were fairly new. The CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) magnet collected up enough shavings to make it erratic. The larger pieces of shavings clung to the oil pickup screen, blocking it approximately 40%.
Post turbo replacement. In the process of diagnosing the engine stalling once the car warmed up well, I had to run to stall temp approximately five times. Engine seems to run hot but the gauge read normal. On the third time to stall temp, I noticed the oil light would flicker at idle with no load. This condition could be forced by tapping the gas and letting the RPM’s run down.
Cleaning the shavings off the CPS stopped the warm stalls and the running hot. Oil light flickering at hot idle continued. Dropped the oil pan, removed all the shavings and cleaned up the pickup screen. Upon completion, no more old light flickering.
What I do know! If the puffs of smoke come, and it’s not from the head gasket, go ahead and get a turbo replacement planned and don’t wait for complete failure. If you do have a complete turbo failure and find yourself fogging the neighborhood, make this part of the turbo replacement project. Drop the oil pan and do a complete cleaning, even if it was done recently. Instructions are on http://www.fixmysaab.com. Be sure to pick up the three o-rings before you start the project. The one on the pickup tube was 3/16 thick and I couldn’t find one except from the dealer. That added an extra day. The other two are only 1/8 thick and were available at my local hardware store for 75 cents each. They fit on each end of the other oil tube that stays up by the crank after the pan is dropped (step 2, picture 3, on right). Remove the CPS from the block and clean it up. Incidentally the CPS can be pulled from the block for cleaning, at any random time, with a torx socket on the end of a 6 inch extension, (1/4 drive) without removing any additional items. Less than 5 minutes.
What I don’t know! One week later now, oil light flickering at hot idle, shows up again, although intermittently. I will be getting oil pressure tested to further diagnose. Questions still to be answered. Is the motor toast? Metal shavings messing with the oil pressure sensing? Could it be the oil pump?
Please add your two cents.
posted by 71.89.120...
, Tue, 26 Oct 2010 04:33:36, Tue, 26 Oct 2010 08:05:35, Fri, 29 Oct 2010 07:42:23
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