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Re: Flushing kit Posted by JerseySaab [Email] (#666) [Profile/Gallery] (more from JerseySaab) on Mon, 28 Jul 2014 12:30:57 In Reply to: Re: Flushing kit, tkell [Profile/Gallery] , Mon, 28 Jul 2014 11:25:44 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Really, the drier should have been the last component installed. Since it absorbs moisture you want to limit its exposure to the atmosphere. (It's impossible to prevent all atmospheric moisture from entering while working on an opened system, it's the drier's job to remove and contain any such residual moisture.)
I would disconnect the drier and cap it while working on the rest of the system. Then remove the compressor so you can shake out as much oil as possible. Before reconnecting the compressor, flush out the rest of the system to get rid of old oil and contamination. (DO NOT flush the compressor or drier, the flushing compound can damage those components!)
Make sure you dry out the flushed parts with clean compressed air so there is no flushing compound left inside. By the time you're done flushing you'll probably have used up the first set of shop air filters, so use a second set for drying.
You will want to put in the fresh oil before buttoning up the system, I usually put about 1/3 of the required amount each in the compressor, evaporator line, and condenser line. Then working as quickly as possible to minimize moisture absorption, connect up your drier, compressor, and any disconnected fittings. After buttoning up the system go ahead and pull vacuum. Since your drier has been exposed to atmosphere, I would recommend pulling a good solid 30" vacuum for several hours.
I recommend Nylog sealant be used on all o-rings and fittings, I've found that it's a big help in getting everything sealed properly the first time.
->Posting last edited on Mon, 28 Jul 2014 12:37:43.
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