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Fuel Pump, 2006 9-5 Sport Combi (LONG)
This was not my very worst DIY, but I would probably pay to have a good mechanic do it next time! This is my personal log, not an instruction manual, and I suggest anyone thinking of this as a DIY consider it very carefully – read on and you'll see why.
This 2006 wagon is at about 120k miles, and it had a hot crank-no-start for my daughter last week. I replaced the CPS, but was uncertain about my diagnosis. Reading the 9-3 SS board it seems that their fuel pumps (same as the 2006-2009 9-5's have) are not lasting much longer than 1999-2005 9-5's, so I added fuel pump replacement to the laundry list of long-range work planned, for this wagon to keep it for the next 100k miles.
Here's what I did / experienced: Took me a long time, but I am careful and slow, especially with gasoline around. Car was up high on jack stands, all wheels off. Ran engine and pulled fuse #15 (20 amps) in the dash – engine died quickly, and I shut off the ignition. I removed the battery and lowered the entire exhaust – I will do more work, so this combined all the exhaust work in one session.
I read WIS and found helpful hints on the 9-3 SS boards. The pump I ordered: I bought a Walbro NG 9-3 SS pump (P/N 12805467) as posted by JustinHiFi. This appears identical to the 2006 9-5 pump except for a longer line between the pump and the Evap Canister and slight differences in supply/return line length/shape. JustinHiFi said he has one in a customer car running fine for >25k miles. The 9-3 part cost $250 versus $550 for an official 9-5 part (both Walbro, same retailer). This pump came with a new sealing gasket.
I spent a lot of time keeping the exhaust straight while lowering. Removing the down pipe from the turbo is awkward with tight catalytic converter clearance to the transmission. The center brace (four bolts) under exhaust is trapped by triangular brackets still held by rear front subframe bushing bolts. I loosened only one bolt to avoid re -torquing both of them.
I removed parking brake cables from rear brakes, and then disconnected fuel lines. Newer pumps have squeeze connectors, but this car had supply / return lines that required GM removal tools (I bought a set to change 2005 Arc fuel filters – who knew ?). Evap Canister line slowed me 15 minutes while I figured out that the F connector can be pushed from one side (side against the canister out of sight !).
WIS says remove filler pipe retaining bolt – it doesn't say why, but it is necessary to move the filler pipe enough to undo the filler hose from the tank. On my car this is an external Torx bolt, and was hard to remove (did not want to break it!). WIS says to remove filler pipe hose and "bleed tube" from the tank before lowering it. The bleed tube needed the GM connector tool again. WIS does not say how obstructed this area is. On my car the filler obviously went in before they installed the rear subframe, because the "airplane" screw clamp on the filler pipe hose was installed with the screw at the bottom where I could not see it (there is almost no room). I thought this might not be possible, but I used a 7mm open end ignition wrench and loosened the clamp.
With filler pipe removed I hoped to pump the gas out of the half full tank – but there is a flap device in the tank inlet, and I decided it was smarter not to break it. Fortunately my jack had plenty of capacity / stability for the weight. It is a motorcycle jack with a wood platform located by large bolts sitting in holes intended for add-on bike risers. I recut the platform just narrower than the gas tank straps, I faced the jack toward the front of the car (and gas tank), and raised it to the tank bottom. This jack moves the platform forward as it lowers. I didn't undo the rear tank strap bolts.
Before lowering, I opened the access under the rear seat and unplugged the pump main connector. I had a moment of wishful thinking – this job used to be so easy! Lowering the tank I checked clearance 3 times – good thing, because the lines that had been taped to the tank were a little loose, and one looped over the chassis fuel line ends.
Once lowered I slid the gas tank onto a creeper so I could roll it out from under the car and outside of my garage to change out the pump. Natural daylight, no sparks, & pleasant - thankfully! I ordered the OTC special tool to remove / replace the pump locking ring - it looks just like the WIS. Opinions I read on line were that nothing else really works. I used 20 inch breaker bar. The evap tube inside the tank had another F type connector like the external Evap Canister line.
Putting it back together was faster, but the pump turned with the lock ring, and I had to redo it to get it aligned. No alignment marks on the pump, but the hoses and original install made it plain. I put the tank back on the creeper, muscled it onto the jack again, raised it past the rear antisway bar (back slightly higher than front), and jacked it high enough to reinstall the tank straps. Then I connected three fuel lines, bleed tube and filler hose. I found an angle with a 7mm 1/4 inch socket, flex drive, and 'screw driver' handle that let me tighten the clamp on the filler hose reaching between tank and rear subframe. It was great to connect the plug and reseal the access under the back seat!
Mark in Marine (MN)
link to fuel connector types
posted by 173.85.2...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfuYTjftkDo
1
, Thu, 20 Aug 2015 16:38:42
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