Re: bike racks - fork or upright? (Long winded, opinionated) - Saab 9-5 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: bike racks - fork or upright? (Long winded, opinionated)
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Posted by John Davies (more from John Davies) on Fri, 6 Apr 2001 00:19:56 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: bike racks - fork or upright?, Magellan, Thu, 5 Apr 2001 20:47:41
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I think you first need to tell us what sort of bikes you carry.

For cheap department store bikes (Huffy), an upright mount would be appropriate, because the front wheels usually don't have quick releases, and the bikes tend to be very heavy. Heaving a completely assembled heavy bike onto an upright mount tray is fairly quick and easy. Though your back muscles might protest.

OTH, as Lola pointed out, an expensive bike probably deserves a fork mount. Without the front wheel you only have perhaps 25 pounds max to balance while you secure the fork. As far as I know, only the Cannondale Lefty fork won't work (without an adapter) with this kind of mount. Everything else should be dandy. This type of mount gets the bike (a little) lower, is very secure, and looks racey. The upright looks extremely dorky, in my admitedly biased opinion.

There are a variety of upright mounts available. The Yakima AnkleBiter is the one I would choose if I had to pick one of those - it holds the bike using a clamp around one of the crank arms and does not touch the frame anywhere. Designed for round bars, it can be adapted to square ones (I think!)

If you have the factory (Thule) bars, I strongly recommend the Thule VeloVise. It has an automatic cam mechanism that opens the clamp far enough to clear the "lawyer lips" on modern forks, yet it clamps down tight with a single easy motion. It also is secure because it clamps solidly to the crossbar with an allen bolt that is inaccessible when the mount is locked. (The rear clamps are exposed, however.) It is very sturdy and looks good on my Aero Wagon. However.....to get the front bar back far enough to use a fairing, I had to cut off about 3 inches of the rear of the tray to clear the hatch when it is in the open position. Not a big deal for me, but be aware that it is longer than the Yakima trays by quite a bit. It has the advantage of fitting both round and square bars, so if you get a different rack system it will still work. Some of the Yakima accessories like the SteelHead _only_ fit round bars.

As far as horror stories go...everyone has close calls. If you are a forgetful sort, you can install a neat little magnetic sign on your hood. At low speeds it pops up to remind you that "You have bikes up there, Nitwit!" Or you can install a small mirror above your garage door so you will see those expensive titanium racers on top before you grind them into rubble.

I make a point of checking all the bikes on my rack, everytime I depart from a gas station, or rest area, or restaurant. Every time! If a joker unhooks the rear wheel straps, or messes with things, you should catch it before your toys depart the car.

Remember that the aerodynamic stresses on the bikes and rack increase dramatically as your speed goes up. Take it easy on the freeway, especially in very windy conditions, never use a bike bra or cover except for low speed local trips (They have been known to lever racks off roofs in very strong crosswinds.) And don't play Mario Andretti on the curves.

If there is a chance you will be driving through rain with the bikes up top, be sure to use a non-petroleum lube, especially on the chain, to prevent oily drips onto your pretty paint.

If you just use common sense and remember what is on your roof, you should have no problems. And just like the sailor at sea (one hand for the ship, one for himself) - one hand for the bike at all times, the other to secure it. Don't ever let go of the bike completely until at least the front is secured! You may get away with that 99 times, but on the 100th, you will watch the bike topple over onto your sunroof or sheet metal.

I hope this helps a little.


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