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Re: Consequences of balljoint neglect? (long)
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Posted by Doug Fuller [Email] (more from Doug Fuller) on Tue, 31 Dec 2002 12:28:49 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Consequences of ball-joint neglect?, jwr, Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:35:39
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They could wear out within that amount of time if one or more of the following are true:
- inferior parts were used
- used parts were used
- something is amiss in the front end -- camber or caster way off, damaged A arm, some other problem (spring, shock, sway bar)
- abusive driving

I had one break on my '88 SPG a couple weeks ago (lower, right). Wheel gets stuffed into the wheel well, damanged body, pulled tripod bearing out of inner driver, tore boot. I was only going 10 MPH so I didn't crash. I had TONS (probably 2 years) of warning and you probably won't reach an unsafe condition until you can actually feel the steering being affected.

Just yesterday I replaced the two right side BJs on my '92 T and now that I know what an easy and inexpensive job it is there's no excuse not to attend to them sooner rather than later (read: don't be a dummy like me).

Eeuroparts carries three BJs:
- Karlyn (which they refer to as "quality") for $11.90 which includes bolts
- TRW for $18.90 w/o bolts (bolts are $1.79). It says these are Saab original TRW.
- Genuine Saab for $23.90 which includes bolts

I ordered the TRW and bolts and they came in two different boxes. One said TRW/Federal-Mogul and the other said Moog/Federal-Mogul. They were the same item and matched the BJs I took off my car. I'm going to go out on a limb here and state that OEM Saab, TRW, Federal-Mogul and Moog are all the same thing and with the OEM your paying $3.21 for the box that says Saab. I don't know for sure but the Karlyn might be the steel cap style versus the solid cast style and if that's the case I'd steer clear of them as I've read that there not as good as the solid cast.

Three seem to be several schools of thought on how to remove a BJ:
- special Saab tool: handy but expensive and prone to failure
- BFH (Big Frickin' Hammer): I attempted this method without success
- Ball joint seperator: I ran out and got one for $8 and things came apart with ease

Get some PB Blaster to help loosen any stuck bolts, use anti-sieze when installing new ones (on threads, bolts and the sides of the BJ itself). Use a floor jack and jackstands -- jack up car, support with jackstands then use the floor jack to slightly raise and lower hub when removing/installing BJ. Use a 1/2" drive, 17mm 6 point socket (I use a 2' gas pipe for an extension for removing) and a 19mm ratchet wrench might be helpful for the stud nut. Be careful not to overtighten nuts when using anti-sieze. Using a lubricant on threads makes it easier to overtighten them due to the reduced friction.

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