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Heater valves fail
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Posted by black (more from black) on Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:42:51 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: No heat and climbing temp needle, Marty, Wed, 5 Nov 2003 12:03:16
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Heater valves fail in several ways. They can develop a leak that appears on the left floorboard. They can become so stiff that the rod will not stay on or become very hard to turn. They can leak internally and prevent the blockage of flow through the core thus heating the cabin even if the temperature is turned to cool. They can also do the opposite and block flow through the core when the temperature selected is hot. 83 1/2 and 84 models may require a accelerator pedal rod modification/replacement to accommodate the new style black plastic heater valve. Factory replacement valves will be if the newest design and contain information about the pedal interference that you should follow. 92 and newer cars may have a problem with the bypass valve located in the heater hoses in the engine compartment, above the alternator. This valve can block flow to the heater core or develop leaks. It is there to prevent loss of cabin heat at idle, something we do not see a need for if the rest of the cooling system is up to par. When we see a problem with this bypass valve, we simply remove it from the car. You can splice in connectors in its place or better yet replace the heater hoses and it with heater hoses from a earlier car without the valve.

Remove the two coolant hoses going to the valve in the engine compartment. You may drain and flush the cooling system at the same time, or just enough to do the job. Then remove the radio and its basket. Use the u shaped tools with the chain between them or some pieces of old clothes hanger to insert in the wholes at the sides of the radio and just pull it out. Remove the ashtray and the two long screws, either Phillips or Torx 20 holding the dash fascia in. The long screws come up from the bottom of the plastic part of the dash, the one farthest right is a bit of a challenge to find, tucked behind the ashtray bracket. This will allow the fascia to come out far enough to get the rod from the temp selector to the valve off the valve. You do not need to remove the dash or fascia, just pull the fascia out slightly to get the rod off.



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